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what do you think of these welds?

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  • what do you think of these welds?

    hey guys hows it goin im new to this board and love it. im in school right now trying to get my certs in aws d1.1 and these are some welds that i did today and would love to hear from you guys the first 2 are 7018 1/8 vert and the other 2 are 7018 1/8 over head







  • #2
    best welds ever!

    Comment


    • #3
      Try and maintain the same travel speed as you go along the weld. I know its hard w/ 7018 doing vertical and overhead but keep practicing and you will get it.
      If you look at your welds they get wider where you slowed down and then they go narrower as you sped up,u want to try and stay at the same speed.

      Dan
      "How will I be judged for the coward that I am"

      Esab Heliarc 252 stick/tig
      Lincoln Ranger 8/Onan 20.5hp
      HH 180 MIG welder
      Old Hobart GF-250/Ford 200 six
      Briggs & Strattion 5,250 watt generator
      Old gas air compressor w/ a Wisconsin Robin engine
      Victor cutting torch
      Milwaukee and Dewalt power tools
      3 roll away tool boxes full of Craftsmen,
      Mac,and Snap On tools

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      • #4
        Originally posted by cky450mm View Post
        best welds ever!
        what the **** is that about?
        Dylan

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        • #5
          Originally posted by migwelder05 View Post
          what the **** is that about?
          its what i say when i think the welds are good. MigWelder05 lets see some of your welds something i got to tell you my teacher had a drawing in his office and its a dumb *** looking monkey welding and it says u can teach a blind monkey to mig weld its that easy so thats what i think about when i think about u

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          • #6
            ok fine, i can mig and stick weld to. i was not at all saying his welds suck or anything it sounded like you were being sarcastic.
            Last edited by migwelder05; 02-15-2009, 02:18 PM.
            Dylan

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            • #7
              heres a stick weld with a 7014 i dont have any of my welds with my mig but ill get some then.
              Dylan

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              • #8
                what no smart *** come back? besides can you even weld? maybe you right even a monkey can mig weld but anyone can pick a mig gun up and pull the trgger and lay a bird **** bead but dose that dosnt make him a welder. im my eyes what makes a welding is not only being able to lay a nice looking bead but to know the process of welding hes doing, how to set his machine, set up hes regulator, load the wire in his welder, change liners, and all the stuff like that.
                Dylan

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                • #9
                  why would that make him a welder? and all that stuff you said it just the beginning of it there's a difference between a welder and a rod burner

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                  • #10
                    Children, children! Say something constructive or say nothing at all. This is just bickering between onlookers. Speak to the OP and ignore each other.

                    I don't see enough in the OP to justify much comment. Just a lot of bumpy plating but I'd like to see something more Need to see a real joining weld and maybe even its backside.
                    Scott

                    Miller XMT 350 CC/CV
                    Miller 22 A wirefeeder w/Bernard 400A Q-gun
                    Miller 30A Spoolmatic/WC-24 Weld Control
                    Hypertherm Powermax 30
                    CK 210 torch / WP-18 torch
                    Victor, Harris O/A cart
                    4"x6" Enco bandsaw on raised cart
                    Dewalt Chop, etc.

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                    • #11
                      yes sorry stone didnt mean to hijack your thread. im no professional but its looks like your getting there. maybe you should try to rest you hand on something you weaving, i also have that problem i don't have steady enough hands. what welder are you using? and where are you going to school if i may ask?
                      Dylan

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i cant get a pic of the backside bacause all those welds were done on a x plate there are prob. over 200 welds under the ones you see but right now im welding on a 1 1/2in. V-grove im haveing some probs with the root pass's but its comeing along also im not sure what the exact mechine is but i know its a huge miller with about 8 machines in 1 also im thinking the reasion that it looks alittle bumpy is because like i said there are about 200 wends under the ones you see and not every one of those are good i live in los angeles and im going to a small school called north valley occupationl center i go from 8-3 5 days a week and it was only $250

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                        • #13
                          well just keep working on it.
                          Dylan

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                          • #14
                            (I avoided saying anything when I first saw the thread as the p**ing match had begun....)

                            The verts need work, but are a good start. You need to slow down a little and maintain a more stable puddle size and more stable travel speed. Grind where you have the spots with poor tie-in to the adjacent bead, and you likely see that there is a decent void in there. May also be slag, but it doesn't look quite right for slag inclusion.

                            Hold a little longer on your restarts to let the puddle establish and burn in (example: first pic, lower right). You can always touch the spot with a grinder if you get too much build at the spot, if needed, and you can always wash it down on the next pass if it is being covered.

                            It helps to weave a little on vert. The weave need only be the width of wire (1/8" for 1/8" rod). Hold at each side to let the puddle fill and burn in (no undercut), but not so long that you get grapes. Think of a waltz: ONE-two-three-ONE-two-three.... Hold on the side for the one, move over the center on two, arrive at the other side of the weave on three. A little weave is still a stringer. As the bead get wider, the weave turns into a collection of horizontal welds, each pass acting as a shelf for the next. It really begins to look like this at a weave maybe three to four times rod diameter.

                            Practical limit for how wide you can go depends on several things that boil down to burning the slag out of your way as you travel over the previous weave. No problem at a couple rod diameters, since the slag is still fluid. With 3/32 wire, at about 3/4" wide, by the time you get back across (one left and right), the slag is generally solid, but still red, and burns right out. At about 1-1/2" wide, slag inclusions are a major concern if the geometry is poor. I won't go over about 3/4" weave in a groove with 1/8" wire due to the risk of trapping slag at the edges, and a bit over 1/2" weave with 3/32". I'll go 2" wide padding. This works so well on vert up because the slag tends to sag, so the successive weaves don't have a lot of slag to remelt. On a flat weld, it takes a lot more work to carry a weave nearly as wide. On horizontal, it is possible by running a diagonal weave, since the slag will run down.


                            Overhead looks pretty good except for travel speed. I actually like overhead with '18. I run it about the same as flat, except I push the rod in more. Lately, I have been upping the dig on the machine (old age? I don't know..... maybe ) Remember: Shove the rod in and keep moving steadily. It looks like you have a good feel for not letting the puddle get too big. That is something a lot of people don't get, even with practice, and grape city. Both pic's show you need to work on travel speed consistency. You don't need to rush, watch the size of the puddle, and keep it tight.


                            On the vee grooves: are you rooting with '18? Open root or closed?

                            Looks pretty good overall. I have seen guys pass mechanicals and radiograph that are little better than your pics show. I pass with welds that don't look much better, in fact. The quality of the weld metal, complete fusion to the base metal, HAZ that is suitable, and the finished weld profile are what matters. Pretty lokos are nice, but not in the codes.
                            I may not be good looking, but I make up for it with my dazzling lack of personality

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                            • #15
                              thank you for all of that, thats the kind of post i have been waiting for my overhead is getting better but i have yet to try it on the v grove and i know that first root is going to kill me as for the vertical grove i have it set up with a 1/8 root opening and i am useing a 1/8 7018 my teacher said not to fell the hole root in 1 pass he said to weld 1 side and than the other to make it look like 1 weld but again thankyou for your input i will try to work on wht you said and see if i can get some pics up in the next few days

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