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  • Rod suggestions

    I just bought some hobart 7018 1/8 rod when i was down at tractor supply because it was a pretty cheap price for 10 pounds. But a few days a days ago at the shop I work at one of the snowcats in our fleet ripped the eyelets that attach the stinger to the frame off. And I was very disappointed with the next thing that happened. I used my hobart stickmate AC 135 amp welder, and was dealing with almost 3/8 inch plate and was maxing the machine out, but when i tap started the hobart rod it went fine, but then before i could even start to get a bead going it fizzled out, and it did this every time, i think the rod is burning faster than it should, any suggestions? And also would temperature effect the flux or the rod so it doesnt burn properly, because im working in the field sometimes at below zero temperatures but this has never happened before.
    Hobart Handler 140

    Hobart Stickmate 235 AC

    Victor Tag-Along Oxy/Acetylene Setup

  • #2
    That stickmate is going to have trouble with 1/8 '18. Some brands will be better, some not as good, depending on the exact flux composition, but any way you look at it it may be tough.

    Tricks to try include laying the rod over more (drag at about a 45 deg angle), preheat the material (which should be done anyway at low temperature) and hold the shortest arc you can. At a lower angle, the weld will tend to stack a bit more, so a little side-to-side oscillation helps keep things in control. By laying the rod over, the flux tends to burn off a little more on the low side, which helps in a borderline situation.
    I may not be good looking, but I make up for it with my dazzling lack of personality

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    • #3
      Regular 7018 will run great on large, industrial duty ac machines, but not on the small homeowner/farmer type ac machines.
      they make 7018 specifically for the small ocv ac machines and usually call it 7018AC or similar.
      Make sure you have that rod, not regular 7018 and it should run just fine and dandy on your machine.

      JTMcC.

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      • #4
        Did you purchase the standard 7018 or the 7018 AC ?
        The standard rod will not run very well on any of the newer AC welders. Several years ago they reduced the max OCV from 90 to 60 and the 18 AC electrodes were developed with extra stabilizers to help in running on the lower AC OCV machines.

        You should be able to run the electrode with the flux of the rod almost dragging on the base metal, the electrode burns up into the flux creating a cup of flux around the core wire unlike 6011 where you need to maintain the arc length
        DrIQ

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        • #5
          Originally posted by DrIQ View Post
          You should be able to run the electrode with the flux of the rod almost dragging on the base metal, the electrode burns up into the flux creating a cup of flux around the core wire unlike 6011 where you need to maintain the arc length
          Not to hijack the thread, but...

          I was playing around with a new (to me) buxxboz and 7018ac and noticed
          this exact thing happening. I figured that I was just doing it wrong (since
          I'm a weekend weldor, don't do it a lot and barely know what I'm doing)
          and went on playing.

          So I guess the right thing was happening after all!

          Thanks for mentioning this and for helping me out!

          Frank

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          • #6
            I had exactly the same results with some Hobart 7018AC that I bought at a farm supply store. I replaced it with some Lincoln 7018AC that I got at a welding supply and the problem went away. I don't think it is because of the brand, I think it's because the stuff at the farm store sits on the shelf forever, and that's after it's been shipped over from Taiwan. Go to a welding supply and get something that's a bit fresher and see if that helps.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the help guys. And, yep i was putting thin flux right on the work like you are supposed to with 7018, but i was using 7018 not 7018ac and i went down to the hardware store and bought some 7018ac forney premium rods and they layed down perfectly.

              One more question. As far as repairs go, out in the field i prefer 6011 alot of the time because of the small amount of prep you have to do with it. But, on the other hand i am compelled to use 7018 because it is a high strength rod, but 6011 has very good penetration and like i said low prep. What would be the best rod for repairing steel that ranges from quarter inch up to 3/8s inch plate that makes up most of the machinery i repair.
              Hobart Handler 140

              Hobart Stickmate 235 AC

              Victor Tag-Along Oxy/Acetylene Setup

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              • #8
                I tried 2 different types of 7018ac and never could get them to weld right. My favorite stick is the 7014 now. The slag will come off in one chunk, usually on its own.
                __________________
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                Lincoln 220v AC buzzbox
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                Hobart AC Stickmate
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by robsd View Post
                  I tried 2 different types of 7018ac and never could get them to weld right. My favorite stick is the 7014 now. The slag will come off in one chunk, usually on its own.
                  These (7014) and 6012/13 are excellent rods for a great many welding jobs , I consider the 7018 an overkill in many situations where mild steel is being
                  utilized.

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                  • #10
                    One more question. As far as repairs go, out in the field i prefer 6011 alot of the time because of the small amount of prep you have to do with it. But, on the other hand i am compelled to use 7018 because it is a high strength rod, but 6011 has very good penetration and like i said low prep. What would be the best rod for repairing steel that ranges from quarter inch up to 3/8s inch plate that makes up most of the machinery i repair.
                    Either one with mild steel.
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                    • #11
                      I worked for an earthmoving company in the 70s and almost all welding repairs
                      were implemented using a 7014.

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                      • #12
                        The 13 and 14 are fine for general work but don't have as good of mechanical characteristics of 10,11 and 7018. About the only place you see these other rods are small shops, home, hobby kind of stuff. Not widely used by most of the professional crowd.
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