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  • welding pieces together

    i would like a few pointers on welding metal of two different thicknesses. i am welding sheet metal to 1/4" angle iron. how do you weld the two and get the right penetration on the thick stuff without burning through the thin stuff? a few pics would be great if anybody has them

  • #2
    You dont really need "penetration" here, just fusion the thickness of the thin sheet.
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    • #3
      Its easier to start your arc on the 1/4 inch metal and let the puddle just wash into the sheet metal.

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      • #4
        new at welding - diff thk pieces

        Still learning welding. Need to weld two diff thk pieces together. For example if I wanted to fillet weld .125" steel to .25" steel, what would I set the amperage for? Lets say I'm using a E6011 electrode. Would I still split the weld angle evenly between vertical and horizontal pieces or bias toward the thicker? Is a mod to the electrode weaving required?
        TomK

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Tom Kroegel View Post
          Still learning welding. Need to weld two diff thk pieces together. For example if I wanted to fillet weld .125" steel to .25" steel, what would I set the amperage for? Lets say I'm using a E6011 electrode. Would I still split the weld angle evenly between vertical and horizontal pieces or bias toward the thicker? Is a mod to the electrode weaving required?
          I'd be inclined to use a diffferent rod than E6011 where the biggest concern is burning through the thinner of two pieces. 6013, 7014 and 7018 all would be preferred by me as they seem to deposit more metal and penetrate less. I'm not an expert, but 6013 and 7014 all build up a fillet very quickly and easily. 6011 really digs in more in my experience, so I use it where that is what I desire.

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          • #6
            Actually 6011 is easier to use when welding sheet metal to thicker steel.You can control the puddle better with these rods[my opinion only].Use 1/8nch 6011 at around 85 amps.Start on thicker metal and whip down to the sheet metal,back up to the thicker then back down to the sheet.Dont stay on the sheet to long or you can burn through.It takes some practice to do this.If this is to much heat ,turn it down to 80 amps.It is a littlr different technique than just burning two thick pieces together.But it aint rocket science either.Practice on some scrap until you get it down.People tend to think you have to run 6011/6010 fast because of the violent arc,but when you have your amps dialed in ,you can slow down and weld away,just like any other rod.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by boilerman79 View Post
              Actually 6011 is easier to use when welding sheet metal to thicker steel.You can control the puddle better with these rods[my opinion only].Use 1/8nch 6011 at around 85 amps.Start on thicker metal and whip down to the sheet metal,back up to the thicker then back down to the sheet.Dont stay on the sheet to long or you can burn through.It takes some practice to do this.If this is to much heat ,turn it down to 80 amps.It is a littlr different technique than just burning two thick pieces together.But it aint rocket science either.Practice on some scrap until you get it down.People tend to think you have to run 6011/6010 fast because of the violent arc,but when you have your amps dialed in ,you can slow down and weld away,just like any other rod.
              I agree with you. I don't do the whip though. I just keep the puddle where it flows on to the lighter thickness and melts in. Not hard to do at all with a little practice.

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              • #8
                Another option is 6013 with DCEN polarity. This will give you less penetration then DCEP, but not all rods will work with DCEN. 6013 can do either polarity and AC as well. With 6013 just make sure you have really really clean metal, and you use the proper rod angles, or you'll get nasty fish eyes and slag inclusions.

                Remember, when making fillet welds, the leg size only needs to be as thick as the thinner piece of base metal.
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                • #9
                  learning welding

                  Have butt welded (with slight groove) 1/8" pieces with 3/32 E6013, DCEN @ 90 amps with good results judging from the 'row of dimes' appearance. What is fish eye? I have never worried about slag inclusion. I still have to get better control of my weld speed, I manage to keep my weld angle about 80 degrees - does any of this help prevent slag inclusion? Can push welding versus pull welding be a cause of slag inlusion?
                  TomK

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tom Kroegel View Post
                    What is fish eye?
                    A fish eye is sort of small dimple or hole in the middle of a weld bead. It is usually caused by surface impurities on the base metal. This is common with picky rods like 6013 or 7024 that don't have any tolerance for dirty metal. You rarely get them with rods like 6010/6011 that have a high tolerance for rust/dirt/paint, etc.

                    They can also be caused by improper manipulation that causes slag inclusions.

                    Originally posted by Tom Kroegel View Post
                    I manage to keep my weld angle about 80 degrees - does any of this help prevent slag inclusion? Can push welding versus pull welding be a cause of slag inlusion?
                    anywhere from 10-15 degrees off the perpendicular (75-80 degrees from the base metal) is an acceptable angle.

                    I've never heard push or pull used to describe the rod angle for stick welding, but hey, it is descriptive. In any event, yes, a push angle would cause slag inclusions, because the force of the arc would blow slag ahead of the weld pool. The pull angle forces the slag back onto the weld bead that you've already laid down.
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                    • #11
                      learning welding

                      I thought the same thing about slag inclusion when I first read of push / pull welding angle in instruction books, but visiting youtube (expertvillage.com to be exact) it sounds like it is a welder preference as to which is done. Also, in welding aluminum, it is recommended to use push welding along with a 4043 or 5356 electrode, DCEP, possibly preheat, etc. Is the 4043 electrode a different animal such that the slag will not be a problem when push welding?
                      TomK

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                      • #12
                        OK,Just finished my 2nd bottle of wine ,so I must be right,most new welders[self taught] use 6013s .7014s and 6011s.In most real world welding you will use 7018s and 6010s/6011s.Get some 3/32 7018s and some 1/8 6011s ,as they use the same amps.And practice all you can.Start out doing fillet[tee] welds.I think running beads on plate is a waste of time[my opinion]Open root butt welds,with 6010 root,7018 fill and cap.If you get the hang of 7018s,then 6013 ,7014s are a breeze to use.If you have an A.C only welder you will need 7018ac rods and 6011 rods.If you have the D.C. option get Reg.7018 rods and 6010+ rods.You will use these two in the real world more than anything else.As far as welding welding thick metal to sheet metal,its not hard to do,but it does take practice.and the correct amp setting[1/8 6010/6011,l80-85 amps.You can weld 16 gauge sheet to 16 gauge sheet using the same rods[70 -80 amps]it just takes practice.Any body that wants to learn how to weld should look at taking at least a basic arc welding class,but you can be self taught ,it just takes longer to learn.OK ,I think I may open the third bottle after all,good luck

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