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  • vert up 7018

    welli am currently working on my college assingments but 1 of them is killing me and that is the vert up not that i cant do it but the fact that when i do it on a fillet havent even dared to try it on butt yet but i get some excessive convexity and i know i am capable of doing it i can do it at my high school and at hope with little to no convexity so any advice on anything would be greatly appreciated

    7018-1/8
    100 amps
    metal 3/8 3x6
    it is always better to be long than to too short.

  • #2
    It takes a while to read the puddle and how much it will hold its surface tension, kind of like a raindrop to some extent for lack of better wording. Here is a student weld, then where I demo it. You can see the first is just plain too slow, the second on the bottom you can see where I could make it near flat if I wanted to.
    http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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    • #3
      There are several variations.
      http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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      • #4
        Vertical up newbie too....

        Well,

        This probobly isnt so much of an answer as an observation from another newb.... but I have just recently done my first vertical ups.

        When running with 7018, they look like dung.... I seem to be having the reverse of my old problem. I have been fighting with outrunning my puddle when doing flat, and going up I need to step up the pace and not let the puddle run me..... Then again, using 6010 vert up I am running 'stack of dimes' beads that leave me with a cheek to cheek grin visible when I lift my hood.

        diogenesNY

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        • #5
          You have the right focus Joe and in my probably not so humble opinion this is where the rubber hits the road in this industry. Being a good stick welder is noticeable as daylight, always a demand somewhere in the trades.
          http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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          • #6
            3f 7018

            The main proplem people run into in verticle up 7018 is that they tend to forget to maintain the rod angle as they move up. If all you do is increase your rod angle and not move up with your stinger you will cause a type of blowout in the flux coating on the end of the rod and you no longer have good puddle control.

            I put the rod into the angled slot on the electrode holder and maintain that angle to the best of my ability through out the weld. But once you master manipulaitng the puddle you will find out their is many other ways to run a verticle up 7018. But learn the right way first.
            Don't sneeze with your hood down!!

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            • #7
              The thing I had to overcome was separating the slag from the puddle....I had to trust that the bead was laying properly, since the slag was drooping down and looked like the weld was running, down...but it was the slag.
              Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
              Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
              IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
              IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

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              • #8
                No one has mentioned yet to work the sides. Not a wide weave, but hold on the left, hold on the right, hold on the left..... hold just long enough for the fill (burn in and fill the undercut) then move to the other side. The less time in the center, the less convex.
                I may not be good looking, but I make up for it with my dazzling lack of personality

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                • #9
                  Pay attention to the sides and the middle will take care of itself

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                  • #10
                    You can also let the rod touch the sides of the fillet helping you to stay straight.

                    This is one of those things, about the rod that you forget, but do out of instinct...the thread has reminded me of a lot of things about this subject ya take for granted. Must what the ancients say...."become "one" with the rod, Grasshopper".
                    Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
                    Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
                    IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
                    IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

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                    • #11
                      That was a good one Rocky - that used to be my favorite TV program. If I ever missed an episode, then I was hard to deal with.

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                      • #12
                        well that some what helps me but i tend to get excessive convexity and i am only running about 80 amps i got the angle but could my amps be hotter or is it just operator error
                        it is always better to be long than to too short.

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                        • #13
                          OK Joe, let's give this a whirl.

                          At the bottom of your original post you stated you were using 1/8" 7018 at 100 amps.

                          This last post you say you are using 80 amps.

                          With 1/8" 7018 you are WAY too cold.

                          I'll give you my basic settings for 7018 vertical up.

                          3/32" 85-95 amps.

                          1/8" 120-130 amps.

                          Once you get your amperage settings set up, and you are still experiencing excessive convexity, then it is operator error. You can flatten out the bead by increasing your speed as you cross over the center of the joint.

                          Hope it helps.

                          Later,
                          Jason

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                          • #14
                            ok that helps a little ill try it and are there really any special techniques to going up oir can i just do a side to side motion
                            it is always better to be long than to too short.

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                            • #15
                              This has already been discussed, but I'll recap it.

                              Nothing special Joe, just standard side to side weave.

                              Just try to go up 1/2 the thickness of your electrode each time you cross the center of the joint. If you pause slightly at the edges like discussed before to eliminate undercut, and keep your speed up across the center, you should end up with thin, flat, nicely stacked layers of deposited metal.

                              Concentrate on eliminating undercut at the edges first, as it is most important to a sound weld, then concentrate on the flat, tightly stacked layers, and your excess convexity should just go away in the process.

                              Hope it helps

                              Later,
                              Jason

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