Hobart 625 (ice-40c) torch/cup question

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  • SidecarFlip
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2010
    • 1679

    #31
    Originally posted by jimcolt View Post
    I have owned 2 PlasmaCam machines....I currently have the DHC2 with a Powermax45 (Hypertherm) plasma. Very nice machine , easy to learn and use. Torchmate is a good choice as well. When looking at the Torchmate make sure you specify the torch height control option...THC is a must for good cut quality and good consumable life with any plasma. It comes standard with the PlasmaCam....most other machine builders offer it as an option.

    Jim
    Couple of questions... My laptop's OS is Window's XP (I have the XP cersion of Auto Cad and DWG Tru View) on it as well. My other laptop is Vista. I'm primarily going to use the machine to cut 0.250" HRPD levelled low carbon sheet. I've standardized my gage requoirements to the 1/4" material. I want to cut down the overhead and bring in house, the parts I now have laser cut. My other laser cut parts, I don't believe I can run on a plasma machine simply because they are No 8 finish (polished) 4000 series stainless and the material comes standard laser filmed.

    Your opinion please.

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    • #32
      Your plastic pipe is probably CPVC which is more flexible than PVC. Over time both become brittle with exposure to UV light and chemicals. CPVC is a little more resistant to UV deterioration. Can paint your CPVC pipe with exterior latex paint to shield it from UV light extending it's life.

      CPVC and PVC pipe holding compressed air sends flying plastic shrapnel when it fails. Steel pipe develops pin holes that vent pressure without exploding in theory.

      Once saw 90 psi diving air system for surface supplied diving at USN diving school. It was all copper tubing up to 2" with sweat solder joints because it didn't require certified welder at that pressure and was cheapest way to build the system. They were diving less than 30 ft and didn't need higher air pressure.

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      • SidecarFlip
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2010
        • 1679

        #33
        We have a sulfur dioxide problem here (in the water that aspirates to the air) so copper is out. I still prefer plastic (over naysayers). I'm now in my 6th year with no problems whatsoever. I have the capabilities of running everything in black pipe (I have a Rigid pipe threader and black pipe in stock all the time) but plastic is much easier to route, no internal rusting and less internal condensation.

        I used heavy wall (schedule 60 I believe) for the runs and UV should not be a problem, it's all inside, not outside. Maybe some UV from the welders, don't know about that. I keep the system pressurized 24/7 at 135 PSI.

        When you factor in the cost of black versus plastic, the plastic is basically 1/4the of the cost, installation is much easier and replacement and/or additional runs are much easier.

        On a side note, the JD dealer I got the idea from is over 10 years on their piping with no failures.

        I was forewarned about the shrapnel fiasco but I haven't had a problem, yet. I can see that happening but it hasn't. You can get killed (by an automobile) walking to the mailbox. Life is about calculated risks and weighing the benefits versus that implied risk.

        What works for me, may not for others.

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