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Need schooling on plasma cutting

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
    I've done cleaner cuts with a SHOTGUN!!

    I had a problem with mu Riland Cut40 that was traced to the inner electrode having worked loose. Unscrew the parts, tighten all up.

    Put a new tip on, that blob of metal on the one in the picture, although decorative, is making it useless.

    Never use a conductive edge (like your steel one) against the tip as a guide or template . When you do so, you are shorting out the tip. (that may be your problem!).

    I drag my tip all the time with no problems, although holding it about 1/4" off or so can give cleaner cuts.

    Double check your ground the machine, and on the piece, icluding the wire at the clamp.

    You air MUST be completely dry. Use a blow nozzle and blast some air against a concrete floor, if you have one. No puddle should form. No droplets.

    My unit continues to do very well, and, if you can't get the problem solved, give the guys at Riland USA a call (holidays may make it tough). they are knowledgeable and helpful.
    It's on my 'to do' list to pick up one of the motorgard filters. Thanks for that advice. I was hoping to skate by that problem during the winter months when the cold air can hold much less water than when it's 90* and humid.

    So, I'm going to replace just the tip, not the electrode which seems fine. I'll see how that goes. I'll even try to hold off the steel a bit and see how that works.
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    • #32
      Like what so many others have said, I have found that if you drag your tip on the metal, you will get what you have. It took me a little bit of practice and a few tips to get my technique down to the point where I can cut nice and smooth even without a spacer guide. I use the side of my hand and pinky to keep the tip at the right distance to prevent what you are having problems with. Your cup and tip are shorting out on the metal. You need space between the metal and the tip as what you are using is air converted to a plasma. By contacting the tip with the metal, you are shorting out the space needed for the plasma to form and causing the tip to melt. Don't drag that tip!

      You need to practice keeping the tip about 1/16 to 1/8 inch away from the metal. Also, if you start in the middle of the metal instead of the edge, then angle the tip about 45 degrees at the start to keep the sparks and molten metal from sticking to the tip. After the metal is pierced, then keep the tip at a 90 degree angle cutting almost straight down like you normally do when cutting.

      Of course this thread is about 3 years old. SO I figure that you already have the problem figured out!
      Last edited by Steve from Ohio; 02-24-2011, 08:20 AM.
      Cobra 2000 A/O torch ( all USA made)
      Everlast Powertig 250EX (US company, Chinese MFG)
      Everlast Powerplasma 50 (US company, Chinese MFG)
      Hobart Handler 210 (US company, Chinese parts)
      GoWeld portable mig (US company, Chinese parts)
      Evolution rage 2 cold saw (USA company, USA parts)
      various other metal working tools