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Riland cut 40 on the way: how wide are tips?

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  • Riland cut 40 on the way: how wide are tips?

    In preparation for the cut40, I know I need the plug for it. Once I get it running, I'd like to have a template ready to use, to cut slots. I'm thinking how much should I allow for the tip? If I need a 5/16 slot for example, should I allow 1/8 for the tip and make a template 7/16 wide?

    Any ideas for good templates for fun stuff?

    Thanks everyone!

    --Bob
    millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

  • #2
    I'll measure my Cut 40 torch tomorrow, if I get a chance. Its in a box in my shop...I switched to a Cut 60 torch and lead about a year ago.
    "Good Enough Never Is"

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    • #3
      OK, I went out to my shop and pulled out the Cut 40 gun. Looks like 1/4" to edge of kerf from the edge of the insulator cone...but the cone is tapered, so the thickness of your template edge will affect that. From the edge of the cutting tip, looks to be about3/16" or so.
      (Cell phone picture, pretty overcast today)

      Last edited by Hotfoot; 12-15-2008, 03:30 PM.
      "Good Enough Never Is"

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      • #4
        Thanks Hotfoot!
        So is the best way to do a template to have something thin that the tip runs against, or something thick that the insulator cup runs against?

        Just found out it's arrived! Can't wait to get home.

        --Bob
        millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

        Comment


        • #5
          I don't use templates, other than for circles (Paint can lids, etc.), I do use straight edges (usually free large paint sticks), so they ride along the copper tip. You're cutting so fast (or you should be!) that you barely scorch the wood. I've even used cardboard a time or two. Hardboard is easy to make templates from...but you have to be speedy!

          Loosen up and go free hand. Draw your pattern out, but don't get too tight and close with your cut lines. Start with some thin metal (like flashing) Cut the letters out of some old license plates. Practice on a few old tin cans.
          "Good Enough Never Is"

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          • #6
            Wow, the instruction manual is even better in person than the online pdf. Wow. Well, the little guy showed up today and I'm part way through the assembly phase. Thinking about making a short hose connector to my main hose. That might make it a bit easier to move around.

            Interesting, the little bag with the tips and the ceramic cone was opened, and they were all over the box. One tip was missing, but since I'd ordered extras I've got plenty. I've got to get out and try this tomorrow, but at 8* outside, I'm not going to be out there much. We'll see. I'll post with my results!


            --Bob
            millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

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            • #7
              Alright the numbers on the knob translate to what cutting thickness? Any thoughts Hotfoot? I'm excited to get this going hopefully today, I think it's going to be really fun to use.
              --Bob
              millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

              Comment


              • #8
                Just try it. The results will vary with the exact material, anyways. Lower # for thin, highers for thick. Too high of a setting will "blast" more, and lead to more dross and a sloppy cut...but too low will only gouge and not penetrate. Torch must be kept at 90 degrees from work'''tilting just a little affects cut...you'll see. I use 80 psi on my regulator. Air MUST BE very dry (use air chuck to blow into palm of hand...should not get wet...onto concrete floor in warm weather.

                I found old 16 gal lubricant drums to be good cutting "table"...both ends cut out, lay free stove/refrigerator racks over top...discard when used up. The barrel part keeps all the blast and cutting stuff to fall into a neat, sweep-able little pile.
                Last edited by Hotfoot; 12-16-2008, 08:26 AM.
                "Good Enough Never Is"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                  use air chuck to blow into palm of hand.
                  What the f*ck are you doing?
                  NEVER, EVER tell someone to direct compressed air at their body parts.

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                  • #10
                    That's how I was taught back in the 50's when I used to paint cars which works, by the way)...so... just the concrete floor, eh?
                    "Good Enough Never Is"

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                    • #11
                      Just curious why it's so bad to have some compressed air against your hand. At 55-65psi out of a nozzle, I don't see the danger in that act alone. Of course if you're around metal filings or other nasties it would not be good to spray toward you or in any way that could cause stuff to be inhaled or get into the eyes. But that said, a few moments against your hand seems to me to be ok.

                      What am I missing that causes it to be dangerous?
                      --Bob
                      millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        At 100 psi the air stream and anything it contains is traveling approx. 150 mph. this includes pipe scale, oil droplets, water. Did you ever see or receive an 'injection' with one of those air operated needless vaccinators? Same concept.

                        Edit:
                        For those that don't believe me, here's a link:

                        http://www.labsafety.com/refinfo/ezfacts/ezf187.htm
                        Last edited by Pumpkinhead; 12-17-2008, 04:39 PM.

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                        • #13
                          And just because the people across the pond aren't as squeamish about details:

                          REMEMBER - COMPRESSED AIR IS A KILLER - USE IT SENSIBLY

                          The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents, London, reports a serious case when employees in a carpenters' shop were using a compressed air hose to remove sawdust from their clothing. One man was seen to push the hose between the legs of a fellow-worker from behind and the man sustained the following injuries:

                          Bruising and bleeding in the area of the rectum;
                          Shock;
                          Air through tissues over abdomen, chest and neck;
                          Hernia canals in the groin ballooned with air;
                          Abdomen filled with air;
                          Lower bowel torn open in three places, the longest tear being four inches;
                          Abdominal cavity filled with bowel material from lower bowel, also contained much fluid and blood; and
                          Lining of abdominal cavity torn in several places.
                          The man was operated upon and blood transfusions given, but he died three days after being injured.

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                          • #14
                            Alright, just spent time in the garage in 3 degree weather until I couldn't feel my arms and legs anymore. It cuts easily! The biggest issue I have is not going through all the way at spots because I'm jerking it. How do you do it smoothly? It'll help when I can clamp something down and then use both hands. I finally gave up for the night.

                            I need better safety glasses that I can see through but protect my eyes.

                            Not sure if I'll be able to get the smooth slots I need cut, cut. At least not without more practce.

                            --Bob
                            millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Alright, this morning I tried it again. This is great, it is SO fast. To make the slots I need to make, I took a length of relatively thin round stock rod and just hand bent it around a bolt in a 180 bend. I left it open at the other end so I could easily tweak it. Welded it onto a flat piece that could be clamped down, and tried it. Not too bad, a little too wide. Tonight I'll put it in the vise and squish it down just a bit more. The starting peirce leaves a bit larger hole, so I'm starting away from the edge of my template for the slot, and then move over to it and start going around. So far the one side that has the bent rod curve does very well. Since my template doesn't yet have a complete oval - one side is still open, I have to free-hand the end of the slot. Tonight I'll complete the oval template and see what it gets me. I may take some sand paper and smoothen out the inside, the smoother it is the easier it is to follow the sides.

                              The torch took a bit getting used to. There is a button on the top that you press, and it starts the air flow for a few seconds. You have to keep pressing the button down to keep it cutting, otherwise you just get the air for the pre-determined time. Last night I was so tired I'd start the air going, and then couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start the spark. This morning when I was fresh everything was so much clearer!

                              One other question - That 'bakalite' cup on the tip, how do you guys keep from breaking them all the time? I get the feeling I'm gonna break a few of them. I'm careful with my stuff but you know how it is with cords and stuff.

                              Overall VERY PLEASED with my results this morning. I'll post pics of my cuts.
                              Thanks everyone!
                              --Bob
                              millr210, 125cf tank C-25w/.030 wire. spdgls 9002x. Jet 5x6 bndsw, HF chopsaw, 4.5 and 9 inch grindrs. .

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