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Track Torch Set Up Assistance Needed

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  • Track Torch Set Up Assistance Needed

    Thank you in advance for your help. I purchased a Go_Fer III Track torch recently to help me make better cuts in my 2" thick steel plate, its a medium carbon steel. It has a Harris Calorific Machine Torch body in it and I have both 6290-2 and -3 tips rated at 1-2" and 2-3" thickness capability respectively. I used the Harris tip chart to experiment with both tips but because the chart provides a range of pressures and no machine cutting speed recommendations I'm left with trial and error...which is fine and kind of fun but with my O2 at 45-50PSI it could get costly, I need to dial it in a little tighter. I was able to find a Victor Chart for a similar tip Series 3-101, its pressures were very close to the #3 Harris tip and included a speed rate of 12/15 ipm. I am attaching some pictures so you can see how its going. I got pretty close with the #3 tip except for a slightly melted kerf and a small lead in and exit gouge, not really sure on the exit gouge because I let it finish the cut before stopping the gas? The enter gouge may be because I'm hanging at the starting edge too long. I would also like to mention that I had flashback arrestors on my hand held torch that I transferred to my machine torch manifold where the lines hook up, its a two line system and I'm using 3/8" lines.
    I'm hoping someone can provide me with a little bit tighter range to try because after adjusting the speed up and down, the pressures up and down, and the tip distance up and down I have thoroughly confused myself and cant seem to get back to the super smooth cut with the soft top edge and little gouges, I was leaning towards accepting that as "the best I could manage" , now I'm totally lost.
    One other thing is that this entire set up was purchased used, it came with the #2 tip, which I cleaned. I already had a brand new #3 tip. In terms of the torch body itself, do they every require cleaning? I was trying to follow along with a youtube video and run the Acetylene up until the black smoke just started to fade out, the trouble is that I couldn't get it to change much in the way of smoking, even at nearly wide open...could that be from running flashback arrestors or perhaps a dirty torch body? The Victor Tip chart mentions needing 25% more PSI with arrestors, maybe adding them was a mistake but I was just thinking safety.
    I know there is probably more information you need from me so please feel free to ask away.
    Greg

  • #2
    Some tip chart info so you don't have to look it up!

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    • #3
      When I use mine I run a pretty small flame. I have never opened one up to get that big a flame. But you may have to slow your speed down just a bit. On the start warm the bottom of the plate with another torch for a bit. Especially on thick material if you want nice starts. The torch body itself should be slightly leaning back a degree or 2 so the tip is headed into the cut. Although it will work just as well if it is perpendicular to the plate.
      Hope this helps and keep the tip clean.
      It also seems that you can go thru more oxy and acty when using one
      Last edited by theweldor; 05-07-2018, 07:28 PM. Reason: Added more

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      • #4
        Your machine is actually a Bug-O, and the name you used is the model. They make a good machine, but do not have excellent manuals. Have you tried to contact their support?

        The melted top edges on your cuts indicate travel speed is too slow, or pre-heat flame is too hot. Remember, it is the oxygen that is doing the cutting, not the preheats. On the start groove, are you waiting for the cut to get all the way through before starting travel?

        The arrestors, if low quality or the Wrong type, might be restricting your acetylene flow, and not being able to get out of the smoky range indicates insufficient acetylene flow. Are you using a small cylinder?

        To adjust travel speed, I always turned it up a notch at a time, on a practice piece, until I started losing the cut.

        A dirty torch is unlikely unless subjected to repeated backfires or damage from flasback.

        Finally, to avoid confusion, change only one factor (eg: travel speed, torch adjustment, etc.) at a time. If adjustment above and below present setting does not improve cuts, move to another factor.
        Last edited by Northweldor; 05-09-2018, 08:39 AM.

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        • #5
          Thank you for the reply and no I have not contacted support yet but thats a great idea. I always get my mind locked up on regulator pressure vs what your actually using at the torch. In other words, I may set the regulator to 5 for the fuel and then open it wide at the torch and mix the O2 in to find a neutral flame or just crack it open 1/4 turn then bring the O2 in. There are so many variables it becomes a jumbled mess in my head....ok raise the regulator pressure or open the fuel valve more, do both result in a hotter overall flame? What good is the regulator pressure setting if we restrict it at the valve on the torch? My head says the only way I can truly experience 5psi fuel at the torch tip is if I open the torch fuel valve wide open otherwise Im restricting the flow to some other value...does that add up or is it 5psi out of the tip weather I have the torch fuel valve opened a little or a lot? Am I confusing flow with pressure? Am I just an idiot!!! lol, please dont answer that, but seriously I tend to over think things. I have seen 2 different adjustment techniques; 1. open the fuel all the way at the torch, open O2 1/4 turn and light, adjust to neutral and good cone shape with cutting valve open. 2. Open the fuel 1/4 turn, light and adjust to reduced smoking, bring O2 in to neutral flame, open cutting valve and readjust as needed to get the cones to sit still between valve open and valve closed. Needless to say neither worked although Im sure the 1st method resulted in a hotter pre-heat. I will remove the arrestors and try it again, then...like you suggested, adjust one variable at a time. Do you have a suggestion or comment on regulator pressures and torch valves? Should I be setting the fuel to 5psi at the regulator and then opening using method 1 or 2 to get things started?
          Im very thankful for this site and all the help and direction Im getting, once I get a grip on this I hope to be able to share what Ive learned with others. Thanks again.
          Greg

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Blue Collar Bob View Post
            Thank you for the reply and no I have not contacted support yet but thats a great idea. I always get my mind locked up on regulator pressure vs what your actually using at the torch. In other words, I may set the regulator to 5 for the fuel and then open it wide at the torch and mix the O2 in to find a neutral flame or just crack it open 1/4 turn then bring the O2 in. There are so many variables it becomes a jumbled mess in my head....ok raise the regulator pressure or open the fuel valve more, do both result in a hotter overall flame? What good is the regulator pressure setting if we restrict it at the valve on the torch? My head says the only way I can truly experience 5psi fuel at the torch tip is if I open the torch fuel valve wide open otherwise Im restricting the flow to some other value...does that add up or is it 5psi out of the tip weather I have the torch fuel valve opened a little or a lot? Am I confusing flow with pressure? Am I just an idiot!!! lol, please dont answer that, but seriously I tend to over think things. I have seen 2 different adjustment techniques; 1. open the fuel all the way at the torch, open O2 1/4 turn and light, adjust to neutral and good cone shape with cutting valve open. 2. Open the fuel 1/4 turn, light and adjust to reduced smoking, bring O2 in to neutral flame, open cutting valve and readjust as needed to get the cones to sit still between valve open and valve closed. Needless to say neither worked although Im sure the 1st method resulted in a hotter pre-heat. I will remove the arrestors and try it again, then...like you suggested, adjust one variable at a time. Do you have a suggestion or comment on regulator pressures and torch valves? Should I be setting the fuel to 5psi at the regulator and then opening using method 1 or 2 to get things started?
            Im very thankful for this site and all the help and direction Im getting, once I get a grip on this I hope to be able to share what Ive learned with others. Thanks again.
            Greg
            In setting a machine torch pressures, you should open your acetylene preheat valve fully (about ! 1/2 turns), and, using your acetylene regulator screw add acetylene, and light. Adjust the regulator screw until the flame blows away from the tip about 1/4". (Your acetylene regulator is now set at the maximum flow for that tip). Using the acetylene preheat valve, back the flame off until it returns to the tip.

            Set your oxygen regulator at the pressure required for the thickness you are cutting (from mfg. table). Then add oxygen using the oxygen preheat valve and adjust until you have a neutral flame with both valves wide open. Then open your cutting oxygen valve and re-adjust to neutral flame. Your torch is now set to the maximum preheat for that tip, and the proper oxygen pressure. (To find the minimum preheat, set your torch acetylene preheat just above the smoke range, and adjust oxygen as above).

            Adjust torch so that preheat flames are about 1/8 - 3/16" above metal surface. As I said before, if top edge is rounded (melted away) your preheat is too hot or travel speed is too slow. If you keep losing the cut, preheat needs increase or travel is too fast.

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