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Learning to Use Hobart Handler 190 Mig Welder

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  • Badbmwbrad
    started a topic Learning to Use Hobart Handler 190 Mig Welder

    Learning to Use Hobart Handler 190 Mig Welder

    My first successful weld isn't pretty but it's functional. This trailer's guard rails are assembled from 3/4" NPT pipes (galvanized). A close nipple un-threaded at one corner. After grinding away the zinc, I stich-welded around the butted pieces. Two stub-outs/bird's nests later... Welded Elbows

  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    I'm finally getting some decent looking welds when practicing with flux-core wire The biggest improvement was realized by changing the gun's travel angle to drag the torch.

    Since I'm right-handed, it's easier for me to weld from right to left. The top of the torch is supposed to be tipped toward the left about 15 degrees and this makes my welds look a lot better.. It's also easier to see where the weld torch is going by looking toward the left side of the arc.

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  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    As a practice exercise, I welded together two pieces of angle iron to form a tube steel box beam. Using flux core wire, I tried dragging the torch as recommended ("If there's slag, we drag").
    The two pieces fused together pretty well but it was even harder for me to keep the weld in the joint while dragging the torch during travel! I lowered my hood's auto-darken
    setting to number 9.

    I was welding a horizontal joint from left-to-right and viewing the weld puddle from the left side of the torch. The torch obscured a clear view of the joint and I wandered off track several times.

    My understanding is dragging the torch means that the torch is angled/tilted toward the travel direction. Therefore, if welding on a horizontal joint from left-to-right, then the top of the welding torch should be angled to the right. Presumably,
    to get a clear view of the weld puddle,
    it is necessary to look into the arc from the right side of the torch. If one is right-handed then one's right hand will obscure a clear view of the right side of the puddle when dragging the torch from left-to-right.
    Last edited by Badbmwbrad; 04-01-2019, 11:00 AM.

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  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    One of the things I like about welding is that it's a craft that I'm not going to master in weeks or months. I'm enjoying the learning curve so far (bird's nests notwithstanding). Using the grinder is fun also

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  • ~0le
    replied
    Brad, Getting back to your original question. Given your level of experience, the wire feed speed is AMPERAGE. You need to set the voltage somewhere between "too low" (the wire stubs into the bottom of the joint as you are welding and pushes your gun away from the puddle). and "too high" (lots and lots of spatter). After you have a couple of hundred hours of welding with MIG or Flux Core, come back to this posting and read about the finer points of adjusting both wire feed speed, voltage, and their interactions with other welding parameters. For now, small adjustments of one or the other are fine, but larger adjustments of one will require tweeking the other to keep the arc behaving the way you want it to . . . sizzling bacon and all. Hang in there, Brad, this welding thing is doable, and you can do it. ~0le

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  • Dale M.
    replied
    You will have better success with restarts of unclipped wire if you go solid wire and shield gas, but I always clip my wire for fresh end because seems to work better for me..... Its a learned procedural thing for me to ensure better quality welds....

    Dale

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  • Sandy
    replied
    Flux core especially doesn't like restarting with that burnt tip on the wire, unless you're running hotter than the ****ens and happened to have a more fool proof wire feed system. Once in awhile you get everything just right, the stick out is just right, preheat is perfect and the burn back is just right, then restarts aren't a problem. That don't happen a lot around my place. Just get used to carrying a pair of diags and snipping the end every restart. Saves time in the long run in spite of what some folks claim.

    Absolutely no restarting over slag!!

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  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    I was practicing again this afternoon and made it a point to cut off the wire-end prior to each weld start. This usually resulted in a reliable arc. A few times, the wire didn't arc immediately and having a loose grip on the torch prevented a wire tangle at the feed roller.
    The wire still kinked during one failure to arc

    I do maintain a short stick-out distance and make every effort to get a good ground connection by clamping against a bundle of stranded copper conductors.

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  • Dale M.
    replied
    That style clamp should be sufficient even with out copper embellishments..... I never have issues with the one on my HH 140....After I replaced the silly jumper cable type clamp it came with (older model HH140)...

    Dale

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  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    Yes, but no copper mesh strap and no copper contact inserts.

    Originally posted by Dale M. View Post
    Is this the style ground clamp you have....



    Dale
    Last edited by Badbmwbrad; 03-19-2019, 05:23 AM.

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  • Dale M.
    replied
    Is this the style ground clamp you have....



    Becasue this is alligator clip....



    Dale

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  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    Yes, I grind and brush away all of the paint, scale, flux (when present) from the work piece; especially where the ground clamp is attached.. I don't, however, cut the flux core wire before each welding start. I'm using Hobart wire. Maybe there's a flux ball on the wire-end?
    The ground clamp is a Hobart, spring-loaded alligator clamp.

    Click image for larger version

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    Originally posted by Northweldor View Post

    The copper should not be necessary, and something else is causing your poor ground problem, like paint, heavy mill scale or poor ground clamp or gun. This is not common or routine!

    I use a standard ground clamp on all 4 of my machines and my plasma cutter, and never have ground problems, but i always hit the place the work clamp will be attached with a flap disc or grinder, if needed.

    Are you cutting the wire in between each welding attempt? Some FCAW wire will leave a ball of flux on the wire end that prevents arcing.

    Are you setting your wfs properly?
    Attached Files

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  • Dale M.
    replied
    What ground clamp are you using?..... Is connections tight where you change polarity of leads?... Is connection tight at wire feed assembly.... IF you grab the threaded terminal of ground where it connects in case is the terminal loose or wobbly.... Is connections good from transformer out puts to terminal strip inside case?..... Some thing very basic is not right here... And should not be hard to find... Your use of Jody's copper wire bundle is no going to fix problem, I have thoughts of your problem may be up stream from ground clamp.....IF you are going to pull cover off and check for loose internal wiring BE SURE TO UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL...

    Try relaxing you arms and grip on gun... To much tension there causes fatigue in your arms and will make welding difficult.... Its not solution to you grounding/arc problem but will make the process easier on you....

    Dale
    Last edited by Dale M.; 03-18-2019, 09:48 AM.

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  • Northweldor
    replied
    Originally posted by Badbmwbrad View Post
    Sometimes, when I pull the torch's trigger, the wire feeds into the work piece but does not arc. My reflexes aren't fast enough to let go of the trigger and the wire feed roller makes the wire kink at roller's output side. If I'm tightly holding the torch with rigid arms then the wire exiting the contact tip doesn't push my hands away from the work piece. I was using 0.030" flux core wire and welding on 3/16" steel. The wire feed speed potentiometer was set at 40%.

    To get a better ground connection, I have a length of stranded wire conductors which are clamped against the work piece with the welder's ground clamp.

    Click image for larger version

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    The copper should not be necessary, and something else is causing your poor ground problem, like paint, heavy mill scale or poor ground clamp or gun. This is not common or routine!

    I use a standard ground clamp on all 4 of my machines and my plasma cutter, and never have ground problems, but i always hit the place the work clamp will be attached with a flap disc or grinder, if needed.

    Are you cutting the wire in between each welding attempt? Some FCAW wire will leave a ball of flux on the wire end that prevents arcing.

    Are you setting your wfs properly?

    Leave a comment:


  • Badbmwbrad
    replied
    Sometimes, when I pull the torch's trigger, the wire feeds into the work piece but does not arc. My reflexes aren't fast enough to let go of the trigger and the wire feed roller makes the wire kink at roller's output side. If I'm tightly holding the torch with rigid arms then the wire exiting the contact tip doesn't push my hands away from the work piece. I was using 0.030" flux core wire and welding on 3/16" steel. The wire feed speed potentiometer was set at 40%.

    To get a better ground connection, I have a length of stranded wire conductors which are clamped against the work piece with the welder's ground clamp.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Welding ground straps.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	704067

    Originally posted by Northweldor View Post
    I don't understand your post, A birdsnest is a a feed problem and has nothing to do with a "death grip" on the torch. Also, any normal ground clamp should provide sufficient contact with one pass of a flap disc, no extra copper required.. Better explain!

    Leave a comment:

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