Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

210mvp settings vs your own

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Northweldor
    replied
    Originally posted by HOBARTxj View Post
    Well while dimes are nice and bills are neat, really use just want a structurally sound weld. This just isn't going to cone without practice and learning, but I'm trying as I have opportunities. Ide prefer to learn from wisdom. Ive got some good tools and if applied right I might just get some wisdom of my own.

    has anyone found the mvp210 to seem to like it's factory range settings. It gives a little leeway, but not much, perhaps my ignorance.

    say it recommends 3/30 on a material thickness. 3/25-35 will fail one way or another pretty quick. A tad under or over can be turned, but not too much. Quite interesting seeing where it's happy.
    If you really want to be expert in setting your machine, you need to practice all four factors in setting, so try varying your contact-to-work distance and your travel speed as well as your machine settings, But, only vary one factor at a time, and look at result.

    Leave a comment:


  • HOBARTxj
    replied
    Well while dimes are nice and bills are neat, really use just want a structurally sound weld. This just isn't going to cone without practice and learning, but I'm trying as I have opportunities. Ide prefer to learn from wisdom. Ive got some good tools and if applied right I might just get some wisdom of my own.

    has anyone found the mvp210 to seem to like it's factory range settings. It gives a little leeway, but not much, perhaps my ignorance.

    say it recommends 3/30 on a material thickness. 3/25-35 will fail one way or another pretty quick. A tad under or over can be turned, but not too much. Quite interesting seeing where it's happy.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldguyfrom56
    replied
    Originally posted by HOBARTxj View Post
    I feel there is much play in how you utilize this machine. The settings suggested for 3/16th 5 tap 50 wire, is quite hot. Perhaps moving faster is needed, but I can't for the life of me get these nice rows, even remotely hinting at stacking dimes. I don't expect this, but with some cursive e's or repeat sideways checkmarks, ide hope to see one weave that looks differentiated. Idk, lol learning lots.
    This is my brothers truck, he's grinding there. This was a kit offered resulting in some big holes we filled with weld, where it really looks ugly. Raised areas are tacs we added to make sure no 90* plate edge was showing, that way there was blendable material without taking off the weld. pic looks like ****, but we cleaned it up nicely. It's all part of the learning experience I suppose haha.
    we turned down the machine to 3 35 wire and repeated tacs. This is by far the cleanest way I know to weld thus far. Everything on videos looks so slow, the i try and it looks like poo. Hahaha.

    anyway this post is to touch on where I got started on here, and to thank everyone for their advice, as well as patience. I was advised to stick around here to learn, which I have, will continue to do, and appreciate the wisdom of those that know much much more than I likely ever will.

    thank you all
    Let me ask you, would you rather have a stack of dimes or a smooth layer of Ben Franklin's?
    Yup, that machine is capable of wonderful things. More you learn, the more you learn to use it.

    I had half a mind to discuss this WFS thing a bit further. I think the conversation is a little out of step in regards to step voltage/ variable voltage, and what the wire feed does as changes are made?

    However...
    for the record, and just my opinion going on record as saying it, in post #31 I posted a picture. M
    ore or less. The nozzle on a tube of chalking is tapered. cut the small tip and you get a small stream. Cut the wide end and you get a big stream. Now ask yourself a couple of questions. Which takes a greater pressure to squeeze? Consistently? Which for the squeeze releases more product? Which is easiest to squeeze? And while we're at it, do you force it in the corner or do you string it on top?
    Then ask do you want dimes or Ben Franklins?

    Teeter totter...volts and amps (WFS) . Which is the heavy end? You picture the simply teeter totter and think how that might fit, you'll begin to get this and what's going on. Because like it or not, when you change where the heavy sits, in or out on the board, or change the length of the board, where it pivots, the amount of heavy, that's physics and engineering. Look at you right. Get it for free right here. Getting smarter the hard way.

    You and other's will learn with us or in spite of us. Wisdom? Maybe?

    Leave a comment:


  • HOBARTxj
    replied
    I feel there is much play in how you utilize this machine. The settings suggested for 3/16th 5 tap 50 wire, is quite hot. Perhaps moving faster is needed, but I can't for the life of me get these nice rows, even remotely hinting at stacking dimes. I don't expect this, but with some cursive e's or repeat sideways checkmarks, ide hope to see one weave that looks differentiated. Idk, lol learning lots.
    This is my brothers truck, he's grinding there. This was a kit offered resulting in some big holes we filled with weld, where it really looks ugly. Raised areas are tacs we added to make sure no 90* plate edge was showing, that way there was blendable material without taking off the weld. pic looks like ****, but we cleaned it up nicely. It's all part of the learning experience I suppose haha.
    we turned down the machine to 3 35 wire and repeated tacs. This is by far the cleanest way I know to weld thus far. Everything on videos looks so slow, the i try and it looks like poo. Hahaha.

    anyway this post is to touch on where I got started on here, and to thank everyone for their advice, as well as patience. I was advised to stick around here to learn, which I have, will continue to do, and appreciate the wisdom of those that know much much more than I likely ever will.

    thank you all
    Attached Files
    Last edited by HOBARTxj; 03-20-2019, 07:15 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldguyfrom56
    replied
    Originally posted by Sandy View Post

    You've got a tough job considering you're talking to a crowd with machines that have knobs and dials that have no real values shown other than 1,2,3,4 on one dial or 0 thru 10 and then 0 to 100 on another dial. Plus without time consuming and extensive measurements, and recording those, we have no way of knowing just what we are doing as we crank one or the other.

    My MM175 has the wire speed tracking thing Dan refers to except the voltage dial is continuous, not tapped. Bump the voltage up a touch and you've just bumped the wire feed speed up, like it or not. Bottom line, touch one knob and you've made two adjustments. Can get frustrating. At least my lincoln machine has real wire feed speeds on the feed speed dial. That helps.
    Between you and me, it almost doesn't matter. Until you go to bend a coupon. Then things matter. These by the way were fails. However, to a lessor standard, all three passed?

    Leave a comment:


  • oldguyfrom56
    replied
    Originally posted by Sandy View Post
    Good read. Note TRG-42 at about post number 20.

    https://weldtalk.hobartwelders.com/f...oes-what/page2
    4 pages of good reading. And fun to. Thumbs up!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sandy
    replied
    Good read. Note TRG-42 at about post number 20.

    https://weldtalk.hobartwelders.com/f...oes-what/page2

    Leave a comment:


  • Sandy
    replied
    Originally posted by oldguyfrom56 View Post
    Well Dan...I'm pretty sure I agree with that statement.
    However...while easy enough to find out, one two three seconds, on 4 settings, what does it mean in practical terms?

    How does a guy who knows that, tell a guy who doesn't what effect it has? Or all the effects it has?


    We see more wire. What's it doing?
    You've got a tough job considering you're talking to a crowd with machines that have knobs and dials that have no real values shown other than 1,2,3,4 on one dial or 0 thru 10 and then 0 to 100 on another dial. Plus without time consuming and extensive measurements, and recording those, we have no way of knowing just what we are doing as we crank one or the other.

    My MM175 has the wire speed tracking thing Dan refers to except the voltage dial is continuous, not tapped. Bump the voltage up a touch and you've just bumped the wire feed speed up, like it or not. Bottom line, touch one knob and you've made two adjustments. Can get frustrating. At least my lincoln machine has real wire feed speeds on the feed speed dial. That helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldguyfrom56
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan View Post
    On the Hobart Handler 135, due to the design of the unit, when you make an adjustment to the voltage, it changes the rate that wire feeds for the same wire speed dial setting. So a wire speed dial setting of 20 is going to feed the wire at a faster rate with the voltage set to tap 2 then it does with the voltage set to tap 1
    Well Dan...I'm pretty sure I agree with that statement.
    However...while easy enough to find out, one two three seconds, on 4 settings, what does it mean in practical terms?

    How does a guy who knows that, tell a guy who doesn't what effect it has? Or all the effects it has?


    We see more wire. What's it doing?

    Leave a comment:


  • coxhaus
    replied
    Thanks you for working with me. Here is a picture of your 3rd image that I downloaded using edit. You will notice how small the image is loaded in the Windows 10 paint program. There is not enough resolution to blow that little picture up.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • coxhaus
    replied
    Originally posted by oldguyfrom56 View Post
    Open...right click, save picture as, save to desk top or documents folder? After that, you'll find them quite readable. Also printable.
    And hopefully of some benefit.
    Thanks for looking.
    No I have downloaded the images. The res is too low. You need to upload the images at a higher resolution to be usable. There are not enough pixels in the image.

    When printing the image is not usable. You may be able to print it fine because your image has more pixels but the one you uploaded will not print correctly at a full page.
    Last edited by coxhaus; 01-01-2019, 11:54 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan
    replied
    Originally posted by oldguyfrom56 View Post
    That's the New Years Puzzler. Seemingly, the only thing changed for setting was the voltage? 1,2, and 3?
    What's up with that? How would that effect the wire melting? The depositing metal?
    With different thicknesses? Different stick outs? Different Positions?
    How about shielding gas, power source, travel speed, short circuit cycles? The best part, it's transferable knowledge.




    On the Hobart Handler 135, due to the design of the unit, when you make an adjustment to the voltage, it changes the rate that wire feeds for the same wire speed dial setting. So a wire speed dial setting of 20 is going to feed the wire at a faster rate with the voltage set to tap 2 then it does with the voltage set to tap 1

    Leave a comment:


  • Andy578
    replied
    Originally posted by coxhaus View Post


    So I have a question since I just bought one of these Hobart 210 MVP welders and I am no pro. Do you
    back down a step on the heat first or do you turn down the speed first. I thought speed controls the amps? So to me it seems like you would first adjust the speed. I have never used a stepped welder. My other Hobart welder is continuous on both the heat and speed.
    the 2 controls need to work together well to produce good results so if you go too far with one or the other it's not gonna work right. if you turn the speed down too low it'll just melt the wire right up and into the tip or if you turn it up too high it can't melt the wire fast enough. the speed is amperage but it's also pushing out that much more wire so as you increase speed you also need to increase voltage to keep up. it's really all about finding that sweet spot where it just works and that comes with practice.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldguyfrom56
    replied
    Open...right click, save picture as, save to desk top or documents folder? After that, you'll find them quite readable. Also printable.
    And hopefully of some benefit.
    Thanks for looking.

    Leave a comment:


  • coxhaus
    replied
    Sure wish I could blow up the first 2 images. You need to load them as a larger picture.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X