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Ironman 230 with ESAB wire

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  • Ironman 230 with ESAB wire

    Working on a mild steel project that has me welding 3/16" wall square tube to 1/2" thick plate, and 3/8" to 1/2" thick flat bar. To produce the welds, I decided to give a roll of ESAB .030 OK Aristorod 12.50 wire, with C25, a try on my Ironman 230. After a few test welds , I decided on tap 11. The resulting arc was aggressive, and very smooth. Since I was using C25, that base metal had a light coat of anti-spatter applied to it. At this point in the project, all the weld joints were a T joint. The beads are so smooth and consistent, with a near flat profile, you'd guess they were produced with spray transfer. Out of curiosity, I hooked a volt and amp meter up to the unit. Consistently saw 25 volts and 205+ amps.

    I do have a more powerful ESAB Migmaster 250 parked right next to the Ironman 230. However, I keep finding myself using the 230, because the arc starts are excellent, and the overall arc quality is very good. Weld puddle wet out is always excellent too.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

  • #2
    Hey Dan, do you keep .035 solid wire in your ESAB Migmaster 250? It seems like the .035 wire would be better suited to that thick flat bar.

    I have put .030 wire in my old Hobart Beta 2510 machine. The .035 wire was causing problems on thin stuff. I felt like the .035 wire was like using a stick welder which I already owned and being limited on thin stuff. Switching to .030 wire helped a lot with welding thin stuff so I am now thinking about a second mig with .023 wire for the really thin stuff. Having multiple MIG machines with different sized wire seems like the way to go.
    Hobart beta-mig 2510 Mig welder
    Victor OA Welding/Cutting Rig
    Century 295 amp Stick welder bought 30+ years ago

    Comment


    • #3
      Since I really have no need for much more than 200 amps my Migmaster 250 typically has an .030 wire in it. Keep in mind my machines are for home hobbyist use. So for most of my applications the .030 wire works well as a general purpose size wire, especially since most of my welding is on 1/8" or 3/16". The Migmaster 250 also happens to run .030 wire well. My Fabricator 211i on the other hand doesn't seem to like the .030 wire as well. It seems to be a much easier unit to get an .035 wire dialed in on, so if I'd used it on this project it would have been with an .035 wire

      At 25 volts and 205+ amps, the .030 wire performed well, on the Ironman 230, on the T joints that I constructed out 3/8 and 1/2" thick flat bar. Traveling along the joint with just a little side to side wiggle I ended up with fillets welds that had a 5/16" - 3/8" leg size with an almost flat profile.

      Honestly, if I hadn't been interested in trying the new roll of wire out, I probably would have went with a roll of .035 INE wire that I have because the Ironman 230 runs it well.

      The project I was welding on was a three point spring tooth frame for my Wife to pull behind her little Kubota to work the little dirt area up that she likes to call here riding arena for her horses. I told the Wife that I was going to production weld it home hobbyist style. Meaning ever joint on it got welded at the 25volt and 205+ amps with the .030 wire. This was a little hot for some of the joints, so appearance wise a few of the welds aren't as nice looking as I typically produce. The one weld bead that is still irritating was one of the money welds on the 3/8" to 1/2" flat bar T joints. All these welds were turning out beautiful. Until the second to last weld. I had about 2" of the weld bead left to run when a moth flew right into my weld puddle, and this messed up the consistency of the bead in that spot . I know the blemish is there so it bothers me.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IM 230 weld (2).jpg Views:	1 Size:	58.8 KB ID:	702620Click image for larger version  Name:	IM 230 weld 3.jpg Views:	1 Size:	74.9 KB ID:	702621
      Last edited by Dan; 11-26-2018, 07:56 AM.
      MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
      Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


      PM 180C



      HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Dan View Post
        ... I had about 2" of the weld bead left to run when a moth flew right into my weld puddle, and this messed up the consistency of the bead in that spot . I know the blemish is there so it bothers me.
        Call it a hunting trophy and you'll feel better!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by MAC702 View Post

          Call it a hunting trophy and you'll feel better!
          If it was a small / short bead, I'd just grind it out and re-weld it. Not ambitious enough anymore to want grind out 8" of a 3/8" leg fillet just to make a prettier weld bead. Next time I'll just save the money welds until the day light hours when the bugs aren't flying overhead around the garage light. When you're running 25 volts and 200+ amps, and a moth flies into the front of your weld puddle it definitely gets your attention.
          MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
          Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


          PM 180C



          HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

          Comment


          • #6
            Dan, your welds always inspire me.
            Hobart beta-mig 2510 Mig welder
            Victor OA Welding/Cutting Rig
            Century 295 amp Stick welder bought 30+ years ago

            Comment

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