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Advice and Insight: Beta-MIG 2510 vs Ironman 210?

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  • Advice and Insight: Beta-MIG 2510 vs Ironman 210?

    I sent in an email yesterday but I'm not sure if it made it to anyone. If so, I apologize for the duplicate request.

    I recently bought a Hobart Beta-Mig 2510. It's in nice shape and works good - no apparent issues. I also have an Ironman 210 that I've been using for the last few years without any issues either. I'm a heavy-DIY occasional user, not a 5-day a week guy. Miscellaneous fabrication, repairs, cars, trucks, tractors, implements, trailers, etc. Mostly <~1/4" steel stuff, but I do occasionally hit the top end of the 210's capacity, but only rarely.

    I'm trying to decide what welder I should keep. I'm really leaning towards keeping the 2510 as I like the higher capacity of the 2510 - but I guess I'm also feeling a little loyal to the 210 since it's been so solid, reliable, and trouble-free for the last 10+ years and it's a tiny bit newer than the 2510.


    Is the 2510 a very good machine? Better than the 210? Any insights anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
    • From a component makeup/quality and overall design perspective - is there significant difference between the two? I'm aware of the obvious differences: power output, duty cycle, single/dual drive rollers -- but anything else notable?
    • The seral number on my 2510 is: KH571636, Stock #: 903533. I'm assuming this was made around 1998? My Ironman 210 is ~2004. Does the age of the units kinda equal each other out? (i.e., The older higher capacity and seemingly higher quality (initial cost) 2510 compared to a newer, lower cost unit -- is it a fair trade off?) Did things change that much in ~six years/does the age really make that much of a difference?
    • From a parts perspective for each - It appears most of the common things are still mostly available from either Hobart, Miller, or aftermarket. Is that a fair characterization? Anything I should be scared of on the 2510 that is not of similar concern for the 210.
    • I am considering replacing the MIG gun with something newer. If so, what is recommended for .035 wire?
    • If possible, can someone send me any available test sheets/manuals/documentation for both the Beta-MIG 2510 and Ironman 210?
    • Lastly, Are there newer drive roller (Miller?) part numbers for the 2510?
      • The manual lists:
      • .023/.025 = 087131 Kit / 087130 Roller
      • .030 = 079594 Kit / 053695 Roller
      • .035 = 079595 Kit / 053700 Roller
      • .045 = 079596 Kit / 053697 Roller
    Thanks!!
    -Ken

  • #2
    All the reed roll kits and rollers are still valid and in stock. The unit was built December 1997. The MIG gun on that unit is the old Piecemaker 20 with a Miller power connection. Later units just came with the Miller M-25 gun. Your unit can use the M-25 without any adapters.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      Any thoughts/insights into the component reliability and quality difference between the two units?

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      • #4
        Both manuals are available under the service and support tab of the website.Both units are good quality machines. About the only real issue may be that the BM2510(1997-2000) was built for a shorter time period than the IM210(2000-2006). The 2510 is definitely a larger unit power and duty cycle wise. It would be a hard decision that I am glad is not mine to make. Maybe just keep them both and have them set up for different applications/uses. This is why I have so many machines!

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        • #5
          OK. Great. Thanks. Appreciate the insights.

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          • #6
            Nice problem to have! I'm in the camp that doesn't like to get rid of machines. Put into storage if you have to for a spare, or use a second machine when you have lots of different things that prefer different setups.

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            • #7
              Keith: Another question - The fan on the BM2510 does not run all the time when I power on the unit. I understand the fan only turns on when thermostatically needed.

              Some testing revealed that I'm getting 150VAC to the fan when the unit is cold and the fan mode 'off'. Is that normal? I would expect no voltage until needed, then 230VAC...?

              Are there any other schematics / test charts available for the BM2510?
              Last edited by KenBer; 04-02-2018, 01:41 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by KenBer View Post
                Keith: Another question - The fan on the BM2510 does not run all the time when I power on the unit. I understand the fan only turns on when thermostatically needed.

                Some testing revealed that I'm getting 150VAC to the fan when the unit is cold and the fan mode 'off'. Is that normal? I would expect no voltage until needed, then 230VAC...?
                Assuming 230V power from a 2-pole breaker in a 115/230V panel:

                A two-pole load many times will have a single-pole contactor for internal switching. This leaves it "hot" but no current path to operate. But you would expect 115V (to electrical ground) because you are seeing the full voltage of one of the poles.

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                • #9
                  Set one machine up with .045 flux core and leave it that way.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MAC702 View Post

                    Assuming 230V power from a 2-pole breaker in a 115/230V panel:

                    A two-pole load many times will have a single-pole contactor for internal switching. This leaves it "hot" but no current path to operate. But you would expect 115V (to electrical ground) because you are seeing the full voltage of one of the poles.
                    I totally agree... That's why the 150VAC slightly concerns me... I haven't had a lot of time to dig deeper yet.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MAC702 View Post

                      Assuming 230V power from a 2-pole breaker in a 115/230V panel:

                      A two-pole load many times will have a single-pole contactor for internal switching. This leaves it "hot" but no current path to operate. But you would expect 115V (to electrical ground) because you are seeing the full voltage of one of the poles.
                      I looked briefly tonight and one wire to the fan is tied directly to one leg of the 230VAC (I'm getting 118VAC to ground). The other wire runs into the DPDT relay - which I have not traced out yet but I'm getting 68VAC (to ground).

                      Anyone know where I can get the full schematics for this? The OM/inside the welder cover only has the power source diagrams.

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                      • #12
                        Just a quick update: I called Miller Tech Support and spoke to someone who provided information about some things to test.

                        After walking thru all the items I've come to the conclusion that everything is working perfectly fine. I guess I was unnecessarily worried about something that was not a problem. The welder worked fine - just seemed strange how the cooling circuit was designed.

                        I was able to bypass the thermostats, the relay would pick and my fan would run. I also checked the two spots for +24VAC on the transformer secondaries and they all tested fine...

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the update!

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                          • #14
                            I have a Hobart Beta-MIG 2510 for over 8 years. The fan only runs when the unit gets hot. I switched to .030 wire a while back and I seem not to be able to run the unit hard enough to cause the fan to come on. Using .035 wire it was easy to make the fan run.

                            I should add when I bought rollers for .030 wire I was told they are the same as Miller 250 Mig welder rollers.
                            Last edited by coxhaus; 11-20-2018, 03:14 AM.
                            Hobart beta-mig 2510 Mig welder
                            Victor OA Welding/Cutting Rig
                            Century 295 amp Stick welder bought 30+ years ago

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