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  • Older Handler 140 problem

    Hello everyone, I just created an account here to try and find a solution to my welders issues. I tried searching but couldn't really find an answer. So here's the issue...

    I've had my welder since new, not sure how long but it's been a really long time. I hadn't used it in a while but then recently about a year ago have been using it off and on, and about at least once a month. From exhaust parts to structural 1/8"-3/16" tube/plate. Since I've stared using it again it's been hit or miss with proper penetration. It did good with the exhaust parts about 5 months ago. Settings were at 3/30 iirc, the. I welded a 3/16" tab to .095 wall tube, beveled the tab, welded perfect. Well now I'm trying to add gussets to some tube and I can't get any penetration at all. The weld just sits on top. Settings at 4/40. The best I could get was at 4/10. And it still didn't sound right. Tried the same settings on a scrap muffler hanger tab, real thin, I could weld on top of it without burning through. Also I've tried it on different outlets and it's made no difference. So I'm out of ideas, I kinda want to take it in but not sure if it's worth it? Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long post.

    Also I noticed the ground clamp was really warm when I removed it one time. Haven't noticed again but I've been leaving the clamp attached while I do something else. When I got the good weld adding the tab to the tube, the clamp was maxed out clamping onto the 1.5" tube.
    Hobart Handler 140
    11# 0.30 solid wire
    75/25 gas
    Serial#LF018395
    Last edited by Adanfon; 05-19-2015, 09:02 AM.

  • #2
    Dont know if ground clamp is issue, probably not.... But if old clamp is funky and looks like a jumper cable clamp you should probably upgrade it....

    http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...n-starting-arc

    Dale
    Last edited by Dale M.; 05-20-2015, 10:09 AM.
    "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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    • #3
      Welcome to the forum.
      Lincoln A/C 225
      Everlast PA 200

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      • #4
        If the clamp gets really hot then make sure you have good spring tension in the clamp as a loose connection can cause heat at the clamp and poor/weak arc. Also make sure all othe cables have good connections such as the gun cable and the work lead itself.

        Keith

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        • #5
          Hobart and now Miller to some extent is using cheap POS sheet metal ground clamps. I have had them actually weld the teeth to a work piece. When I get a new welder with one of those I order off eBay a heavy duty red brass ground clamp and its a 200% improvement. Remember the same amps coming from your stinger or rod holder is going back on the ground. I now see TSC and other stores carrying Hobart now have what looks like the one I use in stock. Its even Hobart branded.
          Retired...
          Master Electrician
          Journeyman Refrigeration Pipefitter
          Semi-pro/Hobby Welder
          Hobart Handler 140
          MakerGear M2 3D Printer


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          • #6
            Thanks for the information fellas, yeah I looked up the serial number and I found the owners manual for it, it said August 2004. So that's over 10 years old. The tension on the clamp seems ok, i tightened the cable on it, still the same thing. I called my local service center they said it would be $37 to check it out. I was thinking about taking it in. I don't really want to just throw parts at it ya know.

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            • #7
              Sounds like bad diodes to me. If you lose a diode it may still weld, but usually it will be a cold weld even turned up to max. If you have a multi-meter, you can test them. If one is bad, replace both. Not a hard job if you know how the solder.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Steve B. View Post
                Sounds like bad diodes to me. If you lose a diode it may still weld, but usually it will be a cold weld even turned up to max. If you have a multi-meter, you can test them. If one is bad, replace both. Not a hard job if you know how the solder.
                Do I just check with resistance and make sure it's one way? Also where are they?

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                • #9
                  Is your out put polarity set correctly for solid wire?
                  MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                  Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                  PM 180C



                  HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dan View Post
                    Is your out put polarity set correctly for solid wire?
                    Yeah I checked, they're good. Also hit them with a wire brush, they weren't corroded or anything just figured why not.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Adanfon View Post
                      Do I just check with resistance and make sure it's one way? Also where are they?
                      I haven't worked on a 140, but should be the same design as a 120 or 135. There should be 2 aluminum heat sink plates inside with a diode bolted in the middle of each. You test resistance both ways. One way should be no reading and the other should show some resistance. You will need to disconnect the diodes from the machine to get a true reading. If you have no reading both ways or if it reads 0 (dead short) they need replacing.

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                      • #12
                        Have you verified that your input voltage is actually 120? Is the thumb screw tight on the aluminum power block that the gun power pin inserts into? As old as your unit is I suspect you have an H-10 (Miller brand name on handle) gun. On this gun, I've seen the strands of copper wire in the gun lead separate/break away from the power pin end of the gun at the crimped connection.
                        MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                        Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                        PM 180C



                        HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well sorry for not responding in a while, i couldn't post from my phone, so I'm using my wife's computer. I wound up taking it in to a local welding supply, i didn't have time to really dig into it myself because I was leaving for work out of town. A week later they called and said the voltage switch was bad, i approved it. Just got the machine back today, cut a piece of 1/2" rod to weld onto the .095" tube for a hook attachment point. It is back to normal again, burned so good, set it at 4/40 and ill still need to turn up the wire speed just a bit to get a little higher weld, but otherwise I can't wait to start welding on the rack again, unfortunately now i need to cut out all the other stuff I welded that i thought was "ok". Oh well, it'll be worth it to have some welds i can actually be proud to showcase.

                          Thanks for all your input guys!

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