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Miller to Hobart

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  • Miller to Hobart

    Purchased a new Miller 180 Autoset about a year ago and very unhappy with it. Looking at the 190 Handler as a replacement. Some questions about the product I cant seem to find anywhere else.

    1. Will the 190 accept Miller/Bernard Mig guns or are the electrical and physical connection proprietary.
    2. I read on the forum that the 140 can only use a 10' gun, does that apply to the 190 as well?
    3. Is there any (miller type autoset feature) on the 190. The main reason I am trying to get away from the Miller. I like to weld a little wetter than the machine will allow, apparently from the "wire speed tracking system" on board the Miller. I want to set the machine where I want it, not what the machine wants to do.

    Thanks in advance to everyone!!!

  • #2
    differrent gun

    The Hobart has a different power pin. It is smaller but you can use some other parts from the miller. The tips, nozzle and diffuser/adapter are the same as the miller M10 gun. The drive roll in the machine is also comparable. The Hobart is tapped and tends to have a wider sweet spot.
    Auto set is just a gimmick. Open the machine door and use the setting on the chart. They are very close.
    At work we were talked into buying a Miller 212 auto set/infinite voltage off the floor from the welding store. The arc is terrible compared to the other machines. No sweet spot and the arc has no dig to it, just too soft. The machine is now just parked and used for occasional tack up only.
    fence and gate shop worker
    At home...
    Lincoln Power MIG 180....
    Winco 6000 watt generator (13 hp Honda) "Big Jake"


    • #3
      Thanks Gatemaker for the quick response, I am also a gate maker and gate operator installer so I bet we have a lot in common and you understand the issues I am having with "autoset".

      More specifically I am concerned my Miller/Bernard gun assemblies wont have the correct physical connection to the Hobart machine, surely I can come up with an adapter or something to accomplish the electrical connection. This is pretty important to my decision to purchase the Hobart machine, I have just as much invested in guns as I do the welder.

      Since we seem to be in the same business maybe you can answer a couple industry specific questions for me as well or maybe agree with what I am trying to accomplish.

      When building gates its seems impractical for me to keep flipping, rotating and moving all around the project to avoid warpage when I can spend less time heating the project back to being flat in very little time. Obviously I like to use .023 wire with just enough heat to make a pleasing looking weld with minimal metal shrinkage. I believe that for ornamental iron work there is a fine line between appearance, structural integrity and design. I prefer using the small portable mig for service work on gates and fences instead of my stick machine. I like the ability to change from solid wire, flux core and aluminum on the fly, plus no of my helpers could burn a rod if there life depended on it.


      • #4
        controlling warpage

        Tack 2 sides of each picket if welding all the way around a picket. Then weld straight down the sides, then top, then flip gate or panel over to weld other side. They should come out square and flat if they started that way. Be sure to clamp 1 rail to something heavier though as they will pull in. With this method you have to run hot or else you will get too much cold lap. If welding on the backside only then after taking it off the table put one end on a block and drop the other from a foot or 18 inches to the floor. That will remove most of the bow. Do not do this if there are welded on castings as they break. Then you can support both ends and just step on 1" or 1 1/4" rails to straighten them. Over the past 2-3 years the company I work for has lost most of that lightweight stuff, except for custom sized or racked (tilted) panels.
        Not sure how thin you are welding. I only use .035" at work. .023" is not good for much in my opinion (which is not worth much). 16g pickets to 3/8" plate. Sometimes even 18g sheet. I do not like .035" on 3/8" plate but we only do that a few times a year. Only use 15' guns there so the .035" works better.
        If making long gates and welding on the backside of pickets only, then support each end of the gate and let the center sag while welding. This is handy for 15'-40' gates. Under 25 foot we park the forks of a forklift on the gate to counteract warpage.
        Your Bernard stuff will not work with the Hobart as the power pin on the end of the gun is smaller on Hobart. Contact Bernard as they might offer a Hobart size pin.
        My Hobart 210 is fine for what I do at home and I plan on using it or a 190 (11# lighter) for mobile work with my generator. I would hate having a 10' gun while making bigger stuff. I have another thread about rough beads with .030" wire and CO2 on tap 6 or 7. Experts told me the technical that the wire is probably maxing out of short circuit MIG. Not going into that here. I realize 75/25 gas costs more but I will probably be switching to that with my Hobart and .030" for thin stuff and .035" for tap 6 or 7 on the 210. .030" should be fine for a Hobart 190 though.
        Last edited by gatemaker; 05-11-2014, 06:54 PM.
        fence and gate shop worker
        At home...
        Lincoln Power MIG 180....
        Winco 6000 watt generator (13 hp Honda) "Big Jake"


        • #5
          Hobart isn't going to recommend using a gun lead over 10' long with a Handler 140, 190, or 210 MVP. Miller isn't going to recommend using a gun lead over 10' long with a Millermatic 140, 180, or 211 either.

          The Millermatic 180 isn't strictly an auto-set unit. You have the option of setting the voltage and wire speed separately too. It seems that you may not be pleased with the way the MM 180 wets the weld puddle out. If this is true it's an inductance issue not an auto-set issue. I've ran a MM 180 and it definitely has a low inductance level. Meaning the arc is fairly crisp and weld puddle wet out is a little sluggish.
          MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
          Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.

          PM 180C

          HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit


          • #6
            look at the hobart 210 mvp .you can find it on sale some times at Blain's farm and fleet for $794 ,no sales tax .