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  • #16
    Some Pictures

    OK, I got to play with it for about 30 minutes this morning. Without going over the small variations I have tried A(after reading the excellent advice)...I believe I have settled into (for 1/8" angle. short runs,,,and yes, I cleaned the weld area)
    Wirespeed: 300
    AMPS: 18
    INDUCTANCE: 8

    I played with the inductance from 4 (hot) to 10 (cold), and with the wirespeed from 400-300 here are three done at the above settings (the one on the left is the backside of another :



    Here are others I marched along the strip, searching for a flatter bead..

    Last edited by Hotfoot; 05-25-2012, 03:17 PM.
    "Good Enough Never Is"

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    • #17
      I bet that wire is China import level wound.Probably a clean arc, but somewhat stiff in weld puddle wet out. They have Uni-braze down at the high priced local welding outfit. They also have 33lb pound USA made .030 HB-28 for a high price. Sure does weld sweet in my larger Thermal. I'm having really good luck with .035 wire in my Esab. Even HF wire has a pretty good arc..

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Scott V View Post
        I bet that wire is China import level wound.Probably a clean arc, but somewhat stiff in weld puddle wet out. They have Uni-braze down at the high priced local welding outfit. They also have 33lb pound USA made .030 HB-28 for a high price. Sure does weld sweet in my larger Thermal. I'm having really good luck with .035 wire in my Esab. Even HF wire has a pretty good arc..
        Yeah, the HF wires have nice, "soft" arc that I like, and leave a nice bead,,,the ones made in Italy, anyways. I picked up a small spool of their Flux cored Italian for my EZ 125, just to have spare in the tool box.
        "Good Enough Never Is"

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        • #19
          Itallians are always soft and sweet, if they are female.....

          On a lark I tried some ING wire for my steel production job and liked it so much, good wet out, basically no spatter with excellent penetration and appearance, I switched entirely. It's of Itallian ancestory, I believe......

          I never knew you guys had 60hz power in Oregon. Thought you still did the oil lamp gig.....
          So little time...So many machine tools.........
          www.flipmeisters.com

          Miller, Hobart & Lincoln TIG/MIG/-
          Hypertherm Plasma (Thanks Jim)
          Plasma-Cam DHC (coming shortly)
          Harris OA
          Too many motorcycles.............-
          sigpic

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          • #20
            Originally posted by SidecarFlip View Post

            I never knew you guys had 60hz power in Oregon. Thought you still did the oil lamp gig.....
            No oil, Just Hydro. One Reason Facebook,Google,Intel, and and Apple are here. Pretty backwards looking companies unlike Detroit.



            My house old house in Portland still had the gas lines ran for Manufactured gas lighting. Never did the oil lamp gig..

            http://www.salemhistory.net/commerce...atural_gas.htm
            Last edited by Scott V; 05-25-2012, 10:01 PM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
              Yeah, the HF wires have nice, "soft" arc that I like, and leave a nice bead,,,the ones made in Italy, anyways. I picked up a small spool of their Flux cored Italian for my EZ 125, just to have spare in the tool box.

              I just looked, and loaded up the HF .035 wire. (Italy) Runs very much like Esab Mig-6 wire.(Mexico) Runs crisp in all the machines I put it in. Used it in my C-300 power-wave to stiffen the arc up, over most other wires. Wets out good. Pretty happy camper with the little Esab .035 HF combo. Can't get the Esab in 8 inch spools. Seems like I paid about $60 for a #44 pounder..


              http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/f...bon_steel_mig6
              Last edited by Scott V; 05-26-2012, 12:38 AM.

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              • #22
                I'll just have to create something, then dial the machine in to match what I'm doing...I do find the three parameters much more difficult than the two I dealt with on the 180...and really only one, because I kept the wire speed constant, and only switched down from #2 to #1 for thin sheet metal, and usually didn't have to mess with switching over to .023 wire, because my art is less demanding than industrial or production work.

                I'm ready to trade Dan for that 210MVP if he's still up to that.
                "Good Enough Never Is"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                  I'll just have to create something, then dial the machine in to match what I'm doing...I do find the three parameters much more difficult than the two I dealt with on the 180...and really only one, because I kept the wire speed constant, and only switched down from #2 to #1 for thin sheet metal, and usually didn't have to mess with switching over to .023 wire, because my art is less demanding than industrial or production work.

                  I'm ready to trade Dan for that 210MVP if he's still up to that.
                  Probably been more happy with a esab160...and if you were not,


                  http://www.esabna.com/dualshieldx/in...active=active6


                  Being in Texas, you will have no problem unloading the machine for very close for what you bought it for..

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                    I'll just have to create something, then dial the machine in to match what I'm doing...I do find the three parameters much more difficult than the two I dealt with on the 180...and really only one, because I kept the wire speed constant, and only switched down from #2 to #1 for thin sheet metal, and usually didn't have to mess with switching over to .023 wire, because my art is less demanding than industrial or production work.

                    I'm ready to trade Dan for that 210MVP if he's still up to that.
                    Hotfoot,

                    I hope you weren't taking me seriously about trading units. The 210 MVP I have is a field test unit Hobart sent me around a year and a half ago, and I've never received an official notification that it was mine to keep. I suspect it is though. Also, being a tapped unit the 210 MVP is fairly simple to get dialed in quickly, so I don't feel I'd want to part with this luxury for the times when I am in a hurry and just want to get a job done quickly.

                    For me, the Fab 181i or ESAB Caddy 200 is more like a toy that I want to play with for the educational purpose of seeing how changes in the inductance and voltage influence how the unit performs.

                    If you're going to be more comfortable with a simpler unit, like I was recommending for you in your past thread, it maybe wise to take a small loss on the 181i and sell it. Then purchase yourself a Handler 190 or 210 MVP.
                    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                    PM 180C



                    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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                    • #25
                      The machine does its stuff very well, its the operator. I'll build something today, and see if that doesn't help me bond with it better....'more like OJT rather than classroom learning!
                      "Good Enough Never Is"

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Dan View Post
                        Hotfoot,

                        For me, the Fab 181i or ESAB Caddy 200 is more like a toy that I want to play with for the educational purpose of seeing how changes in the inductance and voltage influence how the unit performs.
                        Compared to the two HH-210 units I had. Turned up full blast the Hobart's are more of a toy.( Esab has that Hot driving arc that just does not break up) I pretty much leave the Esab at a setting of #6 on the inductance. (default is #5) Without a knob poking at you,there is not a real urge twirl it all the time. Q-set works, and is faster then a tapped unit to set, but not needed at all.

                        I think you are going to have to give the little inverter a good chance, before you bail. You might really like what it offers down the road..
                        Last edited by Scott V; 05-26-2012, 09:22 AM.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Scott V View Post
                          Compared to the two HH-210 units I had. Turned up full blast the Hobart's are more of a toy.( Esab has that Hot driving arc that just does not break up) I pretty much leave the Esab at a setting of #6 on the inductance. (default is #5) Without a knob poking at you,there is not a real urge twirl it all the time.
                          I wasn't calling the Caddy 200 a toy. Due to the number of units that I already have in my possession; somewhat thanks to Hobart, for a hobbyist garage shop I really don't need another unit. However, this doesn't stop me from wanting to have unit like the 181i or Caddy 200 to play with. I am starting to favor the 200 for some reason. Currently though before I could purchase either unit, I'd probably end up having to sell the Migmaster 250, and MM 210. The MM 210 is definitely finally going to find a new home sometime this summer. Even though the Ironman 230 offers me plenty of top end power for anything I have needed to weld for several years now, giving up the additional power that the ESAB offers is something I have a difficult time wanting to do. Selling the IM 230 isn't an option.

                          BTW,the top end arc quality is one area that I've liked on the two Handler 210 units I've ran. It's not quite as good as my Migmaster 250 is in the same output power range. However, it still produces a fairly light spatter level for the amount of voltage. Weld puddle wetout is real good too. The arc has a good amount of drive to it to me, but then again I 've never ran any of your high end inverter machines.
                          MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                          Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                          PM 180C



                          HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            The Caddy-mig is more like a Multimaster then a Migmaster.. What I wanted out of a little machine was decent power/light weight, and the ability to run off of my small generator. The Esab excels in all those area's. Nice that it welds good too. I really do prefer my my 400 MST in overall arc quality. It would piss me off if I did not. The Hobart's are really nice machines, but see above... Took a while to get the Esab to work like I want, shortening the nozzle was a big step to get it to weld right. Also time just using it. That is why I want Hotfoot to give it some more time... I think the Hobart's are easier to setup, and get good welds right away, but after owning a more advanced rig for a bit, it will become second nature to dial-in. He might never like it, but then again, he might really start to see it has it's own things that are outstanding about it. Being a real desirable welding machine, will help him re-coupe about all of his money. Texas has real high prices on used welding stuff. Not like up here, where many things are mint condition, for pretty cheap.

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