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  • #46
    I saw a 6 amp Skil 4 1/2 inch for $30 at Wally (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Skil-4-1-2...95-01/14227167) or HD (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051). Also saw a TaskForce (house brand) 7 amp 4 1/2 inch at Lowes for $20 through 3/11 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_363011-11241...ers&facetInfo=).
    Last edited by Blacksmith; 02-20-2012, 11:17 AM.
    Blacksmith
    Stickmate LX AC/DC
    Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
    Hand cranked coal forge
    Freon bottle propane forge
    HH 210 and bottle of C25

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    • #47
      I have five 7 to 9amp Mastercraft (Canadian Tire house-brand) @ $25 , 2 with sanding discs, 1 flap, 1 cut-off, and one 1/4" disk. Have only had 1 breakdown, replaced brushes and back in business. All for less than the price of one
      "good" grinder, and always have a spare!

      Edited: Forgot old 7" aluminum housing B&D with wire wheel.
      Last edited by Northweldor; 02-20-2012, 03:14 PM.

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      • #48
        I see I can get two of the Bosch 1380SLIM 7.5 Amp slim grinders delivered for $90. Includes a diamond wheel. Tempting.
        --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

        Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
        -------------------------

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        • #49
          I just happened to notice it at Kmart, haven't seen a Walmart lately. Its nice they are off the shelf, thats a plus, I don't recall what the current rating is but not incredibly hi but a guy wouldn't give it a second thought as to if it was underpowered. I have had other grinders I like a little bit better but it ain't worth a pinch of sheet difference when it comes to getting work done. I scavenge any hex wheel nuts to change them,, but on the bench no big deal to use the supplied wrench.
          The wheels I have ran thru one of these over an extended period have time as been worth way more than the tool which is pretty much disposable price, when this one dies or needs a cord unless its stupid simple in the junk it goes, well earned its keep, done a lot of hard work for long time. Especially for home/hobby/maintenance, only anotherprofessionall could abuse it like I do.
          It takes so much mental pain out of adding another tool if a guy needs one, buy 3 for 100$ on big job.
          http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Blacksmith View Post
            Cary - sweet tip on the grinder. I need at least one more; cut off wheel in one, flappy disc in the other, I'm getting tired of changing all the time. Most places a 4 1/2 inch with any power is $45+. Thanks.
            You'll kick yerself for not buying a 2nd or 3rd grinder sooner
            Ed Conley
            Screaming Broccoli, Inc
            http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
            MM252
            MM211
            Miller Passport Plus, Spoolmate 100
            TA185
            SO 2020 Bender
            Miller 125c Plasma
            "Hold my beer while I try this!"

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Broccoli1 View Post
              You'll kick yerself for not buying a 2nd or 3rd grinder sooner
              Just had my hip replaced a month ago, I'm not kicking anything for a while!

              Those Skils for $30 look pretty good; even stores the wrench in the side handle so I can lose them both at the same time.
              Blacksmith
              Stickmate LX AC/DC
              Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
              Hand cranked coal forge
              Freon bottle propane forge
              HH 210 and bottle of C25

              Comment


              • #52
                Very Nice

                Got my new Ironman 230 over the weekend. After getting it setup I did a couple of welds. What a difference.


                I do have a question about the recommendation chart. How is it the same number recommended for 1/4" and 1/2". Then you will see numbers where the setting for 035 is cooler then 045. Is this table just filled with errors?



                Thanks,
                Matt

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by trailrider View Post
                  Got my new Ironman 230 over the weekend. After getting it setup I did a couple of welds. What a difference.


                  I do have a question about the recommendation chart. How is it the same number recommended for 1/4" and 1/2". Then you will see numbers where the setting for 035 is cooler then 045. Is this table just filled with errors?



                  Thanks,
                  Matt
                  No, to the errors. There are a range of settings from a minimum to a maximum for each wire size and your heat actually varies also with increased and decreased wire-speed. Also, your heat varies with technique, (eg: pulling or pushing, stick-out, multi-passes, type of transfer, etc) and this chart is just an approximation to get you used to the machine. Finally, 035 should be cooler than 045, since 045 is the larger wire. You will develop your own settings with practice.

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by trailrider View Post
                    Got my new Ironman 230 over the weekend. After getting it setup I did a couple of welds. What a difference.


                    I do have a question about the recommendation chart. How is it the same number recommended for 1/4" and 1/2". Then you will see numbers where the setting for 035 is cooler then 045. Is this table just filled with errors?



                    Thanks,
                    Matt
                    Matt,

                    Over the years my experience has that the suggested door chart settings provided with most machines are useless. I pretty much ignore the door chart on all units. I've been running an Ironman 230 for several years now, and I honestly couldn't tell you one the suggested door chart setting for any matter thickness.

                    If I were welding a horizontal or flat T or lap joint constructed out of 1/2" steel, I'd have the machine set way hotter then the suggested 7/50 for an .035 ER70S-6 & C25 ( I looked it up in my OM). For this type of 1/2" situation I'd be using tap #12 and whatever wire speed had the wire burning off properly.
                    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                    PM 180C



                    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Blacksmith View Post
                      Just had my hip replaced a month ago, I'm not kicking anything for a while!

                      Those Skils for $30 look pretty good; even stores the wrench in the side handle so I can lose them both at the same time.

                      I have 2 of the Skils, as well as several DeWalts and Clarkes (at least one each of knotted wire brush, cup brush, .045 cutting wheel, abrasive grinding wheel, flap disc). I can't see any appreciable difference between the DeWalts and the cheaper ones, except the DeWalts have better and longer cords (the Clarkes' cords are really stiff plastic). The switch on one Skil won't stay locked on (after many hours of use), but one of the DeWalts' switch locked on and the repair would've cost me more than the grinder cost new. Use 'em and toss 'em for $30 is better than buying $100 grinders and thinking you'll fix them if they break.

                      More importantly save money by buying the discs and brushes online. I've had great experiences dealing with Lehigh Valley Abrasives. US made SAIT abrasives at a fraction of the cost of what you buy locally.
                      "never argue with an idiot; he'll bring you down to his level, and win by experience"

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Dan View Post
                        If I were welding a horizontal or flat T or lap joint constructed out of 1/2" steel, I'd have the machine set way hotter then the suggested 7/50 for an .035 ER70S-6 & C25 ( I looked it up in my OM). For this type of 1/2" situation I'd be using tap #12 and whatever wire speed had the wire burning off properly.
                        Have you tried setting the machine this way?
                        Thanks,
                        Matt

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                        • #57
                          I am sure he has, probably done it every way it can be done. I too often ignore the charts for the most part or start out using it but for a thickness or 2 heavier than the material I am working on. They are probably not all bad for vert up, but the rest of it I set on "smokin" I am lazy enough I want the machine to do the work.
                          http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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