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Flux cored welding with CO2?

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  • #16
    I will also add, using a straight CO2 gas, rather than an argon mixed gas, WITH a wire designed to run with it (either hard wire or a dual-shield wire), WILL give you somewhat better penetration, and since CO2 is a reactive gas, not an inert gas, generally handles contamination better, whether scale, rust, oil, galvanizing, etc.
    *** Disclaimer ***

    As I have no wish to toy with anybody's life, I suggest you take this and all other posts with a certain amount of skepticism. Carefully evaluate, and if necessary, research on your own any suggestions or advice you might pick up here, especially those from my posts, as I obviously haven't the skill and experience exhibited by some of the more illustrious and more successful members of this forum. I'm not responsible for anything I say, as I drank toxic water when young.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Novanate70 View Post

      Speaking of prep work, other than grinding, brushing, beveling, etc, would it benefit me to clean the surface with acetone? I've been reading the "Welder's Handbook" and it's recommended a few times. Is there something better to use?
      If you Grind it, you will be good to go- save the acetone for the Mrs. and her nail polish removal.


      Anything with Mill Scale - flap disc it or Grind it
      Anything with oil- remove the oil
      Ed Conley
      Screaming Broccoli, Inc
      http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
      MM252
      MM211
      Miller Passport Plus, Spoolmate 100
      TA185
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      "Hold my beer while I try this!"

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      • #18
        Originally posted by calweld View Post
        Novanate70,

        Are you actually having problems? or are you just imagining problems you don't have?

        Most flux-cored wires, will handle a certain amount of contaminants, whether mill-scale, a little rust, a little oil.

        Same for most stick rods. Likewise, up to a point, even mig wires.

        You should stop reading, start running beads, if necessary, just practice beads, and break them open, look inside. Practice and observation will teach you much more than reading, or advice, from unqualified people.
        haha no I'm not having any problems yet. I'm just starting out and trying to sift through the mountains of bad info going around whether it's online, in a book, or from a shop. I've been running beads for about 2 hours every night after work since I got the thing.

        Thanks broccoli1 Didn't think there was much of a point in cleaning it more after grinding/ sanding
        HH140

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        • #19
          A couple recommendations for welding 1/4" with your HH 140, would be to run an .035 E71T-11 wire and preheat the base metal to at least 70º F.
          MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
          Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


          PM 180C



          HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Dan View Post
            A couple recommendations for welding 1/4" with your HH 140, would be to run an .035 E71T-11 wire and preheat the base metal to at least 70º F.
            That's what a few people have said and so does the chart on my welder. But when I contacted hobart to ask them they said to run the .030 with beveling and multiple passes for the best pentration. A few others have agreed with using .030 as well. So I'm a little confused as to what to use. I will be using a Hobart E71T-11 wire though. Maybe I'll bevel and preheat with the .030?
            HH140

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Novanate70 View Post
              That's what a few people have said and so does the chart on my welder. But when I contacted hobart to ask them they said to run the .030 with beveling and multiple passes for the best pentration. A few others have agreed with using .030 as well. So I'm a little confused as to what to use. I will be using a Hobart E71T-11 wire though. Maybe I'll bevel and preheat with the .030?
              If the unit is able to output all 140 amps (roughly) with the .030 wire, then the .030 wire would be the better choice, due to its higher current density. I stated .035 because I know the unit will be able to output 140 amps (roughly) with it. I don't know the current range of an .030 E71T-11 self shielded fluxcore.

              When it warms up a little I'll give a roll of .030 and .035 a try and see how well each works.
              MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
              Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


              PM 180C



              HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

              Comment


              • #22
                Is it welded yet?
                Trailblazer 302 * Millermatic 212 * Syncrowave 180SD * X-Treme 12VS Feeder * Spoolmate 3035
                Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52 Plasma * Lincoln 175 MIG

                Victor Superrange II * Victor Journeyman

                Hobart HH 125EZ


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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Dan View Post
                  If the unit is able to output all 140 amps (roughly) with the .030 wire, then the .030 wire would be the better choice, due to its higher current density. I stated .035 because I know the unit will be able to output 140 amps (roughly) with it. I don't know the current range of an .030 E71T-11 self shielded fluxcore.

                  When it warms up a little I'll give a roll of .030 and .035 a try and see how well each works.
                  that would be very much appreciated. Thanks Out of curiosity, is there any way to tell what the amperage output is at a given wfs? My machine doesn't seem to like to go to much past 4/55 settings with .030 before stubbing on the metal.
                  HH140

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Novanate70 View Post
                    that would be very much appreciated. Thanks Out of curiosity, is there any way to tell what the amperage output is at a given wfs? My machine doesn't seem to like to go to much past 4/55 settings with .030 before stubbing on the metal.
                    There's not quite as much freeby info out there for the flux cores as there is the GMAW wires but here's an example using Hobarts's FB23 (-GS).. There's enough info there to work out what's close. Not that these numbers will be true for all wires but they can get you on track. If you have a clamp on DC ammeter and the time to screw with it you can arrive at your own guestimations.

                    Cruise around Hobarts products, Lincolns products and any other you can think of and you'll have more information that you can digest for awhile.

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                    • #25
                      thanks that helped quite a bit. I don't need exact numbers. ballpark is fine
                      HH140

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