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OK guys I'm new be gentle

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  • OK guys I'm new be gentle

    OK I'll start this by admitting I have VERY little proper welding training. When I was in auto tech school, I was handed a Miller cricket (110v machine) I wish I knew more but that was a LONG time ago. I was told just keep playing with it till it looks and sounds right. so much for proper training!! Now Fast Forward a decade or so, I'm a custom car builder in a well know shop here in town. I 've built several national class winning cars and I do a lot of the welding on the bodies, I weld the brackets to the frame for just about everything but the suspension and steering (I have a cert. weldor on staff) I've been picking his brain for a long time and have got some good info but I NEED to get better as he is retiring soon, anyway to get to the point of my post I've narrowed down my search for my new machine, I now have a cheap Solar 130 machine at home, I keep it loaded with .030" L-56 wire and co2 Argon mix I've managed (with a LOT of practice) to become pretty proficient with it. but the drive system has given up the ghost so I'm looking at 3 other machines the HH 187, the Miller machine (cant remember the number and the Lincoln promig 180 HD I'm thinking th HH is gonna end up in the shop any hints on what a good wire is for me to use for general automotive type building with cold rolled steel and ERW tubing around .120" thick?

  • #2
    Hey 383,
    As a seasoned welding vet, I can only offer some suggestions to provide you insight to becoming better. MIG is a very forgiving process and it is quite easy to learn with proficiency and quality. MIG can hold its' own with any process for most applications. Since you indicate you have a co-worker who has whatever type of certification, you should sacrifice some time together for him to give you the proper techniques and allow you to practice on scrap of similar thicknesses to insure your weld is sound & penetration parameters achieved. You need to get as much practice as possible with the metal thicknesses you will be welding to know each heat/WF setting that is optimum. With sheetmetal, the use of backing strips to avoid burnthru will also render your welds much easier to apply.

    As far as a machine, I would suggest your considerations should be more towards a Miller 210 or Lincoln 215. You will find that having a bit more power is quite advantageous if needed for an unknown job that may require a bit more attitude. Better to have more than less. You can find very reasonably priced used Miller210's or Lincoln 215's for the same or less price than a new 180/187 rated unit. These (2) particular units are workhorses and will serve you quite well for many years. Wire size/grade for your applications would be best with ER70S-6 in .023(body/sheetmetal), .030(up to .250), and .035(over.250) with C25(75AR/25CO2). Since I do 4-8 classic car restorations a year, I use a 250A spoolgun unit for the ease of changing wire sizes for different metal applications with autos and more than enough power.

    Anyway, I hope this will provide you with some food-for-thought and allow you to examine your own levels of competence to be proficient at all the different phases of auto welding utilized and what you need to do. Good luck & practice, practice, practice.... Denny
    Complete weld/mach./fab shop
    Mobile unit

    "A man's word is his honor...without honor, there is nothing."

    "Words are like bullets.... once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."

    "I have no hesitation to kill nor reservation to die for the American Flag & the US Constitution."


    • #3
      I do have a big Lincoln Ideal arc 200 at the shop when we need to weld a bridge!! Me and Pap (retired Navy weldor) do spend a lot of time working close I teach him wiring and EFI stuff he helps me with my welding. I'll write more later as I should be sleeping right now. Keith


      • #4
        Not to hijack your thread, but am I to assume from your handle that you stuffed a bored and stroked 350 into a Datsun 240Z?
        Last edited by Blacksmith; 01-09-2009, 05:58 AM.
        Stickmate LX AC/DC
        Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
        Hand cranked coal forge
        Freon bottle propane forge
        HH 210 and bottle of C25


        • #5
          If he did, that's quite the fabrication job in itself.


          • #6
            yes I did I also grafted a Dana 44m from a early 80's vette in it along with an 8 point cage I'll post some pics if anybody is interested. Keith


            • #7
              Of course we're interested, that's why we're here!


              • #8
                Originally posted by 383 240z View Post
                yes I did I also grafted a Dana 44m from a early 80's vette in it along with an 8 point cage I'll post some pics if anybody is interested. Keith

                Bring 'em on !!
                -Bob (JalopyBldr)

                13" SBL


                • #9
                  I put up a few pics of the 383 240z, I also put up some of my Fc3S as well, That is my 1987 rx-7 that I also put a hot small block into.
         The 240z
         The rx-7