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  • Chicago drill press chuck

    Have an old chicago drill press my father bought at auction in the 70's. Chuck is wore out and needs replaced. Finally got it off(no operators manual) and want to make sure I get the right one. Plate on drill says (chuck capacity 5/8" spindle taper MT#2). Chuck is an Allied and has stamped on it (3 TAPER AP.O-5/8". I assume I order a Morse Taper 3 5/8" capacity chuck? What would be best a Jacobs plain bearing or super? Thanks for any info.

  • #2
    Originally posted by north1 View Post
    Have an old chicago drill press my father bought at auction in the 70's. Chuck is wore out and needs replaced. Finally got it off(no operators manual) and want to make sure I get the right one. Plate on drill says (chuck capacity 5/8" spindle taper MT#2). Chuck is an Allied and has stamped on it (3 TAPER AP.O-5/8". I assume I order a Morse Taper 3 5/8" capacity chuck?
    You have one thing saying its a MT #2 and then another one that appears to indicate a MT #3. If I were you, I'd measure the taper and ensure what you have before buying a chuck. You can find a sizing guide here: http://www.woodturners.org/tech_tips...aper_sizes.htm
    and http://www.gizmology.net/tapers.htm


    Originally posted by north1 View Post
    What would be best a Jacobs plain bearing or super? Thanks for any info.
    The Super chuck will be a better chuck. It is, however, more expensive to boot....it's worth the expense!
    Last edited by DannyK; 11-05-2008, 11:11 PM.

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    • #3
      Sounds more like the arbor that fits between the spindle and the chuck is MT2 spindle taper and JT3 chuck taper. Arbors can be mix and matched to fit whatever spindle size you have...MT2 to whatever chuck Jacobs taper you end up with...you have a JT3 now.

      As far as the expense of the Super Chucks go, they sell reasonably cheap used on eBay. If you check out the photos of the auctions you should be able to pick one out with little wear and tear. The 5/8" maximum capacity size would be listed as a 16N Super Chuck. Watch yourself, there are a number of unscrupulous sellers referring to their products as Super Chucks...usually they lack the Jacobs number in the listing.

      Here is an auction for a 16N by a seller I've used several times before for Super Chucks. Haven't had a bad one from him yet.



      One other cautinary note...be sure the spindle taper is a female taper as some drill presses of your vintage came with a non-removeable male end taper machined onto the spindle. If yours by chance has the non-removeable male spindle taper your would need a chuck to fit that size taper. With the MT2 listing on your original quote, I doubt yours has the male taper, but is equipped with the more universal female spindle taper in a MT2 size.
      Last edited by Wyoming; 11-05-2008, 11:31 PM.
      Miller 251, Lincoln PrecisionTig 275, Miller DialArc 250 AC/DC, Hypertherm 900, Bridgeport J-head, Jet 14" lathe, South Bend 9" lathe, Hossfeld bender with a collection of dies driving me to the poorhouse, Logan shaper, Ellis 3000 bandsaw, Royersford drill press and a Victor Journeyman O/A.

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      • #4
        question for wyoming

        So if I want a chuck with an integral shank I would order or look for a JT3 jacobs chuck and that should fit the spindle in the press which is MT2? Never had to do this before, total newbie. Want to get the integral shank because the female taper in press looks good, but chuck has always woobled slightly since we got it. I think the shank is slightly bent along with the wear in the chuck. Thanks for all your help! Okay, I think it finally sunk in. Arbor between chunk and shank is JT3, arbor between shank and spindle is MT2. So if I get an integral shank chuck it should be MT2.
        Last edited by north1; 11-05-2008, 11:36 PM. Reason: mental retardation

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        • #5
          Originally posted by north1 View Post
          So if I want a chuck with an integral shank I would order or look for a JT3 jacobs chuck and that should fit the spindle in the press which is MT2? Never had to do this before, total newbie. Want to get the integral shank because the female taper in press looks good, but chuck has always woobled slightly since we got it. I think the shank is slightly bent along with the wear in the chuck. Thanks for all your help!
          No, you can obtain any size, brand or configuration of drill chuck you wish without worrying about the arbor. Buy a chuck and look for an arbor to match the chuck to your drill press's spindle...I'm guessing a MT2-to-JT3 arbor would be correct. Right off the top of my head I believe the 16N Super Chuck also uses the JT3 chuck taper, but you can check that out for sure by looking on Enco's on-line catalog for "Super Chuck" and noting what taper they list for it. A Jacobs brand taper would be the best, more or less, that money could buy, but will be more expensive...maybe 50% more. Arbors in that size range aren't all that expensive to begin with...so splurge if you feel like it. Your original chuck was probably junk from the day it was purchased. Most drill presses don't come standard with very high quality chucks...difficult to sell competitively when you are charging $200-$300 for your drill press and it comes with a $150 chuck.

          EDIT: Just looked and the 16N uses a JT3 taper on the chuck side mount. $12.92 from Enco for the arbor in Jacobs brand for a MT2-to-JT3 arbor.
          Last edited by Wyoming; 11-05-2008, 11:47 PM.
          Miller 251, Lincoln PrecisionTig 275, Miller DialArc 250 AC/DC, Hypertherm 900, Bridgeport J-head, Jet 14" lathe, South Bend 9" lathe, Hossfeld bender with a collection of dies driving me to the poorhouse, Logan shaper, Ellis 3000 bandsaw, Royersford drill press and a Victor Journeyman O/A.

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          • #6
            Pics my friend worth a grand guesses.

            If your taper (to spindle) is about the size of an ordinary magic-marker,
            it's a morse 2.
            if about the sise of brat (Bratworst) it's a 3.

            5/8" in tough metals is about all you want to do with a morse 2 spindle.

            A ball-bearing chuck isn't necessarilly more acurate than a plain.
            It's just a lot sweeter to use, and grips and releases better.

            How much drill, would a drill-chuck chuck,
            if a drill-chuck could chuck drill.?

            OOps that's wood-chuck,
            How bout the movie Kill-Drill ? Think yellow.
            No that's Kill-Bill , who makes the yellow drill?
            Makita ? no teal-blue. Bosch, no that's chuck-blue.
            Like a kid who eat to much blue-moon and chucked.

            But I digress. G'night.

            vg
            sigpicViceGrip
            Negative people have a problem for every solution

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            • #7
              Thanks to all!

              Jacobs arbor and chuck are on the way. Thanks to everyone for advice. Sure helps to have people in the know on your side.

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              • #8
                A PDF file with all the taper information is available here:

                --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

                Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
                -------------------------

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