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Some advice on a weld and power

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  • Some advice on a weld and power

    I picked up this machine the engine runs well. It sat for some time now it has no power at the leads or outlets. One brush was stuck I cleaned it they both move freely, the slip rings are clean also.
    I was advised to flash the machine as I did with a car battery and nothing. I would appreciate any tips in what dirrection to go. Iprinted the manual it has wireing diagram in it. Thank you in advance
    Michael

  • #2
    Mike you need to post of few pictures so that we can see the unit you have. Also a serial number and model also.

    Colin O

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    • #3
      its a model number IM 308

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      • #4
        I ordered a new bridige rectifier should be here next week. The one on the one on the machine lugs are broken.

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        • #5
          That machine was built late 1982. I assume it has the Onan CCKA engine? I have a parts welder the same model from 1977. I have a working Weld an power 225 from 1985 and a 150 amp ac unit from the late 1970's. They have the 16 hp briggs and 10 hp kohler engines. 3600 rpm screamers. I prefer the Onan units. What specifically did you do when you attempted to flash the unit? I am no expert on flashing but I was successful in kick starting one of my old units back to life by connecting a 12 volt battery to the welding cables for a second or 2. Let us know how you progress.

          Colin O

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          • #6
            Colin I did set the neg from a 12v battery on the ground. Setting the positive on the battery to the stinger lead. The bridige rectifier posts were broken my brother did best to re attach them with solder them. This is why I ordered a new one. The solenoid is not working properly needs to be replaced also. starter works when solenoid is jumped.

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            • #7
              Yes it's the 16 HP ONAN engine

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              • #8
                Mike I have the manual for the welder and the manuals for the Onan CCKA engine. If you want them send me your email and I will forward them to you.

                Colin

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                • #9
                  Thank you I was able to,download print it from linclon sight. The customer service from linclon gave me some diagrams also. My brother took off the fly wheel today inspected magnets he said they were ok. I bought a new alternator it's available pick up tomorrow. I plan on wait untilI replace rectifier then I do alternator. any other ideas?

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                  • #10
                    I would thoroughly check for any broken wires anywhere. I had an old Hobart with one small broken wire that It took a long time to find and once repaired solved my problem. Also check contacts as some wires may be intact but are corroded at the point of contact and not allowing current to flow. Check the resistor, the strips of thin metal that allow for the amperage to be increased. I have had to machines where these were broken and I had no welding output until these were repaired.
                    Also, make sure your RPM settings are correct. A low rpm setting will not allow weld current. You said you checked all the brushes? I think there are 8 on that unit. 4 for AC Power and 4 for DC welding. Make sure they are all free and that the springs are not broken. I had a broken spring once on the lower brush and gravity pulled it away from the slip ring enough that it didn't make contact.

                    Colin O

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                    • #11
                      I replace the rectifier and post results. Thank you again for help

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                      • #12
                        after the long wait the rectifier arrived today. replaced blown fuse and it welds and has power to the outlets. The amp meter and high idle are not working. The fine tune amps was replaced i dont think its the right one. any ides? i check the manual it gives tips where to look .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Michael_ny View Post
                          ...The amp meter and high idle are not working. The fine tune amps was replaced i dont think its the right one. any ides?...
                          Why do you suspect it's the wrong one? Do you have any pics or part numbers? How did you diagnose that the amp meter isn't working?

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                          • #14
                            because the previous owner told me he put in the wrong rheostat gave me broken old one. I put a volt meter on the actuall guage on the conteol pannel nothing. i have the prints and part numbers just need to go back trouble shoot. there is an issue with push start to i have to figure that out also.i put meter on the battery leads machine running no power either

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Michael_ny View Post
                              because the previous owner told me he put in the wrong rheostat gave me broken old one. I put a volt meter on the actuall guage on the conteol pannel nothing. i have the prints and part numbers just need to go back trouble shoot. there is an issue with push start to i have to figure that out also.i put meter on the battery leads machine running no power either
                              I find this comment really strange.... IF battery connected there should always be "voltage" there.....

                              Dale


                              "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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