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1950s Hobart 450amp welder restoration kinda

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  • 1950s Hobart 450amp welder restoration kinda

    Hey guys I have a 1950s Hobart welder that I’m looking for a radiator cap for it has a flat head Chrysler industrial in it. Unfortunately someone removed all the badging on the machine to paint it some where in the past it’s a nice looking welder that I got for 500 not running but the engine runs great now and after some cleaning the dc 110 works now at about 98 volts on my Volt meter but I still do not have the welding terminals working yet so I’m asking for any help I can find and knowledge on these old machines here are some pictures of it to

  • #2
    Well here is a update it welds wonderful ran it for 5 hours Friday on some 40” drainage pipe 1/8 inch 7018 not one Problem after I got the brushes unstuck it welds great and the 110 is we’re it’s supposed to be now all on its own But still needing a radiator cap and does anyone know how low of an idol when you’re not welding this machine is supposed to have it stays consistent whether I’m welding or not just wondering if this is normal but other than that I’m extremely happy with it


    • #3
      Nice unit. Built to last. Not sure but suspect it does not have an idle down feature. Usually they run at either 1500 or 1800 rpm which is pretty low. I have a 300 amp unit. You set the rpms by using the volt meter. Might runs at 1800 rpm and the voltage setting is 90-95 volts.



      • #4
        Sweet looking welder, she’s a big beaut. The vacuum idle control is on the carburetor side. They seem mildly problematic (at least mine was a real pain) and parts are unobtanium at this point so a person is looking at custom fabrication if they’re missing it (or converting to a lincoln style idle control) I suggest pulling the coil and plunger completely off the unit to get the schrader valve and idle screw set right. The idle mixture screw on it should almost be completely shut, open maybe 1/4 turn. This controls how long it takes to build vacuum in the unit and return to idle. Should have a vacuum tube feeding from engine manifold vacuum to the side of the idle device. If the screw is open too far, it’ll idle down immediately. If it’s shut or clogged, it will never idle down. Sweet spot seems to be about 1/4 turn turned out for 10 seconds or so dwell time. Should have a lockout on it to run it up at weld speed to run aux 110DC.

        One wire from the coil should go down to a brush pack. The other wire should go up to the 1st position tang on the range selector. That’s how mine was wired anyways. I think the theory is the same no matter what machine it’s on. So when you hit it, it energizes the coil, dumps the vacuum, governor takes over.

        I bought my caps from Filler Neck Supply Co. Many hobarts of this era used a 3” double tang quarter turn camlock. Early Case industrial and I believe Cessna 310. Only ones available these days are the vented type. For fuel you’d need to TIG that vent hole shut or use one that’s non-vented you may already have.


        • #5
          Try jegs automotive, or ebay, caps are still out there.


          • #6
            hey i think we have a similar welder. where you able to find any info about it
            Last edited by nomadicwelding; 06-16-2022, 04:43 PM.