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Hobart 10k low voltage high frustration

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  • #16
    From all the tests I’ve been able to perform, it acts like the board (PC1 isn’t getting the required voltage to fire up and do it’s thing.

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    • #17
      The exciter circuit isn’t acting right. Any tests I can do to check the exciter circuit?

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      • #18
        19 0hms across slip rings
        28-29 stator wires only getting 1.0 ohm

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        • #19
          28-29 1ohm
          51-50 0.2 ohm
          52-53 0.2 ohm
          71-70 0.2 ohm
          8-33 0.5 ohm
          72-73 0 ohm not sure this is correct. was very erratic
          Diode test on reg rectifier all checked normal

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          • #20
            More testing this morning.
            wire 20 to ground has 12vdc running idle/run
            wire 7 sends 12vdc to board
            wire 2 is sending 10vdc to TS1

            Red to 33 is +15vdc
            Black to 33 is -15vdc engine running

            now I still have an obvious issue.
            wire 22 has no volts while running and 28 at F1 has none either

            battery isn’t charging while running. No voltage increase at the battery while in operation. I put a new voltage regulator on the engine (Kohler) but something isn’t right. I’m basically showing battery voltage levels without increase during operation.

            So far every check I’ve made shows to be in good standing other than this voltage problem to the battery and power to F1. Any suggestions on what to check to diagnose this would be much appreciated.

            im going to beat this machine. I refuse to let it beat me.

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            • #21
              So I’ve finally narrowed things down to where I know I have problem. Wire 28 has an average of 93 volts AC at the back of the F1fuse holder but wire 22 does not have one volt coming out of the fuse holder. I know what you’re thinking, it’s the fuse.. wellllll not exactly. Changed the fuse for F1 with two brand new fuses and still nothing on wire 22. It’s perplexing. Possibly the fuse holder could be causing an issue so bypassing the fuse holder and marrying the wires through the fuse may be the only option to eliminate that as the culprit.

              its strange in behavior. I’ll update as I know more. Any advice from you pros out there is welcome and appreciated!

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              • #22
                Bypassed the fuse holder and made a fuseable link and correct the output from there. Many things are spec so it’s narrowing down to something on the board that excites the field. Board is powering up at least on some parts.

                I know it looks like I’m taking to my self but I hope this will be able to help others as I go along.

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                • #23
                  Ok several bad diodes on the board.. this is the point where a wise man punts for field position. Chances are that the board has resistors that are bad as well (haven’t checked) and with the amount of time, looking up parts and ordering everything and then spending hours meticulously going over the entire board, it’s better to send it off and have someone who specializes in this board repair. Hope this thread has been somewhat helpful to those having issues.

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                  • #24
                    I wish the Like button worked on this forum. You've done great followups. I'm just following it to learn something.

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                    • #25
                      Thanks Mac702, I work on about any machine from a dirt bike to a blender to cars and trucks. I enjoy it. I do think at some point companies do need to realize that people aren’t made of money especially in the blue collar world I live in. It would be great to be able to address failures on these circuit boards rather than tell folks “your board has failed”. I proved through this little experiment that the board hasn’t “failed”, it simply has some parts that aren’t working any longer. If not for other projects, I would fight this circuit board to the bitter end and I would win.

                      I get it, shops make money off of service but I sat down last night and did the math on available replacement parts for every single part of the circuit board and I came up with 50$ total.

                      It’s been fun checking this machine out and all of its functions but it’s definitely not an F150. So, anyone out there who wants to tackle this monster keep in mind that it can be a dangerous and time consuming effort. Thanks to everyone on the forum who’ve pitched in thoughts as well. I have enjoyed reading through all the different testing ideas and how folks have tried to help one another.

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                      • #26
                        $50 for parts don't seem so bad, but for most the though of doing anything with the circuit board is beyond the capabilities of most of the welder owners.... Also a PC board repaired and tested by people who do this regularly is a lot more viable for most of us that are barely capable if identifying the fact there is defective portions of a circuit board.....

                        Dale
                        "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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                        • #27
                          I totally agree Dale. It’s the down time associated with sending a board for repairs that is hard on most folks I’m referring to. Send it off and wait a month for $195.00 or buy another board for $600? The more I’ve looked over this board I may buy some bulk replacement parts and give it a shot. It’s not as complicated as some folks may think. It’s tedious work though.

                          I think a lot of people probably worry (as I do) that their may be a hidden problem in the system that’s causing the board failure and are reluctant to replace the board unless they know any possible cause of failure has been ruled completely out. That’s where the harder decisions come in. Even under diagnosis things can be missed that could be directly affecting the circuit board from functioning properly and may cause damage to a new board. Those are the real bummers in the welder generator world imo.

                          fortunately I don’t have to have this welder going at all. It’s just a project that I picked up along the way amongst other projects. I find interest in diving into the unknown and I can see why some people would rather send it off and replace it. I don’t blame them one bit for that. I’m not normal I guess lol

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                          • #28
                            Does anyone know the value on D8 HS2 on circuit board for LC623242

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                            • #29
                              Just an update for folks following along. My results from further testing showed the exciter circuit had failed. York Electronics now has the board and I will update as to if the problem is as thought. Regardless, I will make sure this post has an ending so it may be used for you guys out there trying to get a proper diagnosis. My thread won’t leave you hanging

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Lugnut View Post
                                ...I get it, shops make money off of service but I sat down last night and did the math on available replacement parts for every single part of the circuit board and I came up with 50$ total...
                                The value is not the parts. For example, I fix air conditioners for a living. I'm cheaper than most competitors and I might charge $150 to replace a $10 capacitor. But you aren't paying for the part. You're paying for me to figure out or confirm what part is broke, changing it, and perhaps more importantly, the convenience of me showing up with that part on the truck already. I drive around with 100 capacitors, 6 thermostats, 5 relays, 4 contactors, 3 jugs of Freon, 8 motors, and dozens of other small parts on the truck because you didn't tell me exactly what was broke when you called.

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