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Hobart g-213 service manual request and advice info

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  • Hobart g-213 service manual request and advice info

    Hello everyone,

    I am in search of a service manual for a g-213 spec 5776-1 serial AAW-93945. I was recently given this welder and it was the first welder I used at 10 years old(27 years ago). Everything appears to work but I am trying to find info on what the dial is that says push to adjust that appears to be part of the charging circuit. Also more info on what holds the throttle wide open as I believe something may be worn out or missing. And last but most important some of the porcelain on the unit is broken so some of the rings are able to move a bit, I don't think these are available anymore so any ideas of a retrofit or work around would be appreciated.

  • #2
    Check your email.

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    • #3
      Thank you for the manual. I skimmed through it quickly and did not see what that push to adjust knob does that faces the engine any ideas?

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      • #4
        adjustable resistor for the charging circuit push to adjust ?
        Last edited by TDO; 05-17-2018, 02:28 PM.

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        • #5
          Mine has a locking throttle cable and I added the cable clamp as a stop for high RPM and used the idle adjustment screw on the carb for the low RPM setting. I used a HF photo tach to set the RPMs. I had to adjust high RPM up to about 2400 to get the OCV to spec. Make sure the spring is in the proper hole on the governor arm.
          Mike
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            OK so I think I figured out looking at the manual that someone has added a start button on the welding side of the cabinet as well as a stop switch and the adjust knob I was talking about is the factory start switch but why does it have a knob that can spin while pushed in ? and I believe the only way this thing charges the batteries is with this knob pushed in.

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            • #7
              So I believe the blocking diode and both resistors are shot in the charging circuit

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              • #8
                And Mike mine doesn't lock at all and has collars to limit the high idle I set my rpm by voltage so far but will get a meter and set by hz

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TDO View Post
                  OK so I think I figured out looking at the manual that someone has added a start button on the welding side of the cabinet as well as a stop switch and the adjust knob I was talking about is the factory start switch but why does it have a knob that can spin while pushed in ? and I believe the only way this thing charges the batteries is with this knob pushed in.
                  The start switch does spin as it's just a shaft with round contact disc internal. The start, and stop switches on the faceplate, (welding side) are not original. The charging circuit has nothing to do with the start switch being operated. If the unit is not charging the starting batteries, either the hi/low charge rate switch on the left side, (facing the engine) has gone bad, or there is a component, connection, or wire opened up.

                  The throttle cable should pull out and twist to the right to hold high idle. These things don't run 60hz output power so set rpm by voltage and anyplace between 115VAC, and 125VAC is alright. They are not very stable in any account. There is a switch in the upper right hand side for power generation only, and welding with power generation. When the engine is running and you flip this switch, does the engine slow, or work a bit? If so the electrical section is loading as it should. I'm assuming you have AC output voltage, and DC voltage at the out put terminals and receptacles?
                  Thanks for reading/listening.

                  Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                  • #10
                    The high charge switch is also shot but by pressing the start switch in while running you get full current charge to the battery if you look at the wiring diagram the normally open switch becomes normally closed and bypasses all resistor and things. I checked the power coming from the unit to ground side cable and I get 72 volts dc I am able to follow that to the blocking diode but get no voltage passed it so I jumped to the other side and get power to first diode but nothing out the other side so I checked if I had a ohms reading through either resistor and had nothing therefor I believe I require a blocking diode 2 resistors and a high charge switch.

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                    • #11
                      And yes if I flip that switch to standby power it works a bit

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                      • #12
                        There must be a more detailed repair manual for these welders? I am pretty smart with troubleshooting and finding ways o do so and reading electrical schematics. But known voltage
                        and resistance checks would be very helpful.

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                        • #13
                          And yes I do have ac power to all plugs. I also had to fix that. One fuse was blown and the electrical plug was smashed to nothing. I also had intermittent power which was caused by the screw in fuse holder tabs inside being flat causing the fuse to be too short (as far as I can tell on the tab part) I added springs in the screw in fuse part to solve this.

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                          • #14
                            I'm not looking at a print but sounds like you can handle it. Most everything is there that needs to be so you're on the right track.
                            Thanks for reading/listening.

                            Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                            • #15
                              When I got mine neither batt cable was marked for polarity. I hooked the two batts and found it was discharging the batts while running. Switched the batts around and everything worked fine. The batt cable on the left side looking at the engine end is the positive.
                              Mike

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