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4cyl Ford not firing on Hobart 250

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  • 4cyl Ford not firing on Hobart 250

    I am bringing back to life a Hobart Mega Arc 250 with 4cyl Ford gas engine that has not been started in 6yrs. The engine will not fire. I removed a plug and connected to spark plug wire and grounded the plug during cranking but no spark. I have 12v going to coil but no spark leaving coil. One forum I read suggested to disconnect distributor end of coil wire and insert a spark plug in the coil wire, ground the plug, and crank to check for spark - no spark was there. I replaced the coil and the new coil has same result. I am almost to the point of taking it to a Hobart repair shop, but wanted to take one more shot with you guys. This welder has been used very little and it's a shame not to get it going.
    thanks for the great forum!

  • #2
    Is it a distributor/points system or electronic ignition? On the face of it, it sounds like you just need a competent mechanic to get it running, not a welder repair ($$$!) shop. Lots of old mechanics sittin' around who could get it sparking pretty darn quick!
    "Good Enough Never Is"

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    • #3
      I second 'Foot's advice....you definitely don't need to take it to Hobart. In fact, you should be able to get any of the parts you need at the local auto parts store or farm equipment place. Any idea roughly what year the unit is? If you can post some pics of the motor and distributor, someone on here may be able to identify it.
      Hobart IM210
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      '86 Toyota 4WD welding rig with 10kw homebuilt Genset
      '76 M880 for the heavy stuff

      --The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in
      half and put it back in your pocket.

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      • #4
        If I remember correctly it is the industrial version of the pinto 4 cyl. engine model LSG 423
        DrIQ

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        • #5
          Thanks for the input guys. It is electronic ignition. I think it is around 1985 model. I purchased the new coil at NAPA.

          And yeah, the Hobart shop is pricy. The shop I called wants $65 just to tell me the problem. The reason I thought that it needed to go to a welder shop is because of all the splices into the ignition system that Hobart did when they installed this engine during manufacturing.

          There is no Hobart spec plate anywhere on the welder so I sent "Keith" (the moderator of this forum) a picture and he was kind enough to email me an operators manual that has electrical schematics. The manual he sent (which matches my welder perfectly) is dated 1982, with updates in 1991.

          As far as engine goes, it is a Ford Industrial and does have an ID plate with the following info. Looks like ole' Dr. IQ was correct in stating it was an "LSG 423". Maybe the other info is useful for you guys to help?

          00366
          0-17-TL
          2.3L
          TCA-2801-3BL
          LSG-4231-6005-A
          30-2801-B

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          • #6
            Ok...more trouble shooting with neighborhood mechanic came up with two possibilities: 1) bad electronic ignition module or 2) bad overspeed module. Autozone has what they beleive to be the correct module (based on "about" a 1985 2.3L). The module is only $15 so I plan to get it this afternoon and try it. What do you guys think?
            thanks always for the great advice and great forum!

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            • #7
              I used to know (teach) this stuff. Ford used a TFI (Thick Film Ignition) module that mounted on the distributor until enough heat related failures resulted in a recall and relaocation to the fender on vehicles. If that module fails, there is no spark. It's black or gray and about the size of a cigarette pack. BTW, most Ford engine wires disconnect by pushing the lock down against the component then pulling the connector out. Prying them up usually breaks them. Autozone, etc. should be able to test the TFI module.
              Blacksmith
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              Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
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              HH 210 and bottle of C25

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              • #8
                So I got my firing problem resolved - replaced electronics ignition module ($25 Autozone). But still will not start. Appears to be timing issue - trys to start but spits out carb and sometimes manifold. Any suggestions?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DrIQ View Post
                  If I remember correctly it is the industrial version of the pinto 4 cyl. engine model LSG 423
                  10-4 on that same **** thing, I could have that bad larry running in 5mins flat
                  "Weld It And You Won't Be Screwed"
                  Rescued from the boneyard SA-250 on a fully equipt trailer (My Wife's Explorer cries every time I hitch up)
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                  HF- 251 TIG box for the TB with a Weldcrap torch, Yes I weld aluminum
                  More than a toolbox full of stuff on an F-350 that is way to small

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                  • #10
                    If you haven't already checked it- check the timing belt. It is possible for you to have if not a broken belt-one that has one or more teeth that are missing from the belt causing it to jump time and cause the problems you are discribing. If the belt is on-carefully rotate the belt 360 degrees checking for missing or damaged 'cogs' ie teeth on the belt.
                    In addition to the TFI issue that Blacksmith nicely covered those engines are prone to belt issues particularly if they have sat for awhile, the belts will dry rot.

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