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Welding 7/16 steel

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  • metalmeltr
    replied
    Thanks for the help guys,

    Leave a comment:


  • Northweldor
    replied
    Originally posted by vicegrip View Post
    I know full well what you mean, and agree; but I'd like to run your paragragh thru a translator,
    and ask for an attempt to read it in the translated language.
    "Let he who is without sin..."

    Leave a comment:


  • Wyoming
    replied
    Originally posted by vicegrip View Post
    I know full well what you mean, and agree; but I'd like to run your paragragh thru a translator,
    and ask for an attempt to read it in the translated language.
    Don't be gettin' jealous Phil. Cary, as usual, said what was needed to be said.

    Leave a comment:


  • vicegrip
    replied
    Originally posted by Sberry View Post
    Since this looks like it can be bench welded lay it so it is running uphill a few degrees. Id a guy has some common sense and seen a few welds, done a few I am a super fan of the 7018AC, nice and toasty is hard to miss and the rod has great mechanical properties. For me I might whack it a touch with the grinder to give it a little help but on occasion basically leave a gap, melt a bead in hot enough that its right about flush and hog the backside with grinder, weld back in.
    I know full well what you mean, and agree; but I'd like to run your paragragh thru a translator,
    and ask for an attempt to read it in the translated language.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    Since this looks like it can be bench welded lay it so it is running uphill a few degrees. Id a guy has some common sense and seen a few welds, done a few I am a super fan of the 7018AC, nice and toasty is hard to miss and the rod has great mechanical properties. For me I might whack it a touch with the grinder to give it a little help but on occasion basically leave a gap, melt a bead in hot enough that its right about flush and hog the backside with grinder, weld back in.

    Leave a comment:


  • vicegrip
    replied
    Based on observation going way way back, it seems the tendency is for
    beginners to get ahead of the puddle.... instead of letting the wetting set the pace.

    I spose that depending on the rod and part thickness, discerning beyond the slag
    doesn't help either? Hence a few practice runs to examine the result once
    the slag has popped off.

    I've been having great results on cast with a rod that Weld Specialty set me up with.
    But man-O-man the slag builds fast, and I have to just know what's go'n on
    under it by repetician, and tucking the next lap 'just so' under it, or I would
    have to clear the weld each lap.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalmeltr
    replied
    Originally posted by vicegrip View Post
    ditto; but if stick-welding is that rare in your shop, play with some scrap-dummy welds
    till you get the hang of it. Amazing what you can do with a buz-box if you know how to use one.
    vg
    I have stick welded before,but it has been a few years. I taught myself to sick weld on that old airco after learning MIG from my dad. I planned to do a couple test welds on similar sized plate and test them to ensure that they could withstand the full pulling force of the rack, 3 towers at 10 tons-30 tons.

    Leave a comment:


  • vicegrip
    replied
    Originally posted by canoecruiser View Post
    Your Airco welder will have no problem with it. The Lincoln 7018AC sold at Lowes or Home Depot would work. With the joint prep (v-groove), 1/8 inch sticks running about 110-125 amps is a ballpark setting. Wouldn't hurt to preheat the pieces if they're towards the thicker range you mentioned.
    ditto; but if stick-welding is that rare in your shop, play with some scrap-dummy welds
    till you get the hang of it. Amazing what you can do with a buz-box if you know how to use one.
    vg

    Leave a comment:


  • canoecruiser
    replied
    Your Airco welder will have no problem with it. The Lincoln 7018AC sold at Lowes or Home Depot would work. With the joint prep (v-groove), 1/8 inch sticks running about 110-125 amps is a ballpark setting. Wouldn't hurt to preheat the pieces if they're towards the thicker range you mentioned.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalmeltr
    started a topic Welding 7/16 steel

    Welding 7/16 steel

    We recently started using Mo-Clamp's Full Frame Anchoring System http://www.moclamp.com/4070hpage.html.

    As seen in this photo the pinchweld clamp does not hold the thick mouunting flange well because they are designed to clamp steet metal not thick steel.




    My proposed solution is to weld a larger piece of steel to the mounting flange so that it may be directly bolted to the clamping plate.

    The problem is that the flange is about 7/16" it may be closer to 3/8" or 1/2" I haven't measured the thickness of it but it is in that range. I know that stick welding is going to be the best way to go about this, but since this is in a body shop we are not equipped to make this weld.

    Our machine shop has Precision TIG 225, but I do not know if they have the stringer for SMAW.

    At home we have an Airco 180 amp AC only welder.

    Can the Airco welder make this weld-assuming worst case scenario full 1/2".

    What size 7018 rod should be used in this case-I plan to v groove both sides of the weld and make multiple passes. Am I correct in remembering that there is a 7018 AC rod?
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