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Flusx Core vs. Gas

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  • Flusx Core vs. Gas

    I'm relatively new to welding and wanted to ask some questions about Flux vs Gas welding. I've got a little Harbor Freight Mig 132 which allows me to use either Flux Core or do Mig welding with gas. I am doing some panel replacement on a car and the flux core wire that I'm using has a lot of spatter. I have a bottle of Argon/CO2 and have a regulator on the way, will using the Gas give me cleaner welds or is it more a matter of practice? Any recommendations on whcih is better?

  • #2
    Hey FP91,
    I'll try to give you a few pointers regarding auto panel replacement/repair. I do restorations on 6-8 classic cars a year and 95% of the time I run ER70S-6, .023, w/C25(75AR/25CO2). If I am working outside & in windy conditions, I run NR211MP/.023 flux-core. Flux-core will run a little hotter than solid, so you must adjust your heat/wire feed accordingly. With all the restorations I do, I take a sample piece of scrap of the panel material, use a piece of 1/8 X 1 1/2" aluminum angle as a backing plate, & setup the weld. The backing plate generally eliminates burnthru and it is just a matter of the heat setting you use & your travel speed that will dictate your results. I use a 1/8" lap joint & tack every 2" to maintain positioning of the panel and then run short 1" beads with alternating locations to minimize warping. It takes practice and patience. I will stress the importance of using a backing, either aluminum, copper, or brass and it need not to be any thicker than 1/8". After I have all the tacks done, with the 2" spacing, I only run short 1" beads between the tacks & have a wet cloth to cool quickly as this will also reduce your warpage. Remember, auto sheetmetal is like paper and you have to setup on scrap w/backing to get the correct heat/WF. Take your time....it is quite easy and you can obtain superb results if you practice a bit. You will find that solid/C25 is the optimum for auto panel work and will be the easiest to produce a quality replacement of the panel. Anyway, hope this will help you understand the parameters with auto sheetmetal and I'm sure others will chime in to provide their input. Good luck..... Denny

    Addendum: I forgot to mention that the HF131 will do a fine job as it has enough heat for panel welding and material up to 3/16" thick. They are a decent unit to get started and learn with.
    Last edited by yorkiepap; 02-05-2009, 04:30 PM.
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    • #3
      I have welded Suzuki Samurai body metal with flux core wire then solid wire with C25 shielding gas. When I used the flux core wire it was just what was loaded in the welder so gave it a try until it sort of worked. The metal was about 24 gage. Only way to weld it with flux core wire using my welder was by manually pulsing a very short tack weld then letting it cool until weld started to fade from view through my #10 welding lens then lay another tack weld on top to slowly build a short weld bead. Very slow difficult process know one would use if they were not bull headed or didn't have proper MIG welder.

      When I loaded solid .023 inch or .030 inch wire using C25 shielding gas it was easy to weld good bead with no burn through problems. Didn't need backing plate but one might reduce warping. Some MIG welding machines can't do this without copper backing strip. Some MIG welding machines can only do this with .023 inch wire without copper backing strip.

      Great thing about this forum is easy to find out limitations of a welding machine before you buy it.

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