Jet 5"X6" bandsaw.

[cope]

I have the Jet 5"x6" horizontal band saw. When I bought it, everyone recommended the Power Matrix II bi-metal blades, so I got a couple from Enco. The 1st one has been on the saw since day one, because the OEM blade didn't last long enough to set up the saw. I haven't used the saw that much, but the original PM II started jumping off the wheels, so I swapped out. I didn't get more than a dozen cuts in 1x1x16 ga sq. tubing before there were broken teeth on the 2nd blade. I dug the 1st out of the trash, and used it to finish my cuts. I was using 14 TPI, should I have used 18? Also, I had the saw on the slowest speed. Any suggestions?

[Wyoming]

Did you break the blade in before you dove into the 16 ga.? If not, that may be your problem. Season the blade on some much thicker stock and than move to the 16 ga.

[cope]

Did you break the blade in before you dove into the 16 ga.? If not, that may be your problem. Season the blade on some much thicker stock and than move to the 16 ga.

I think the first thing I cut with it was 2x2x1/4 angle, but I'm not sure. I have a couple of new ones coming from Enco, I'll remember to season them. Thanks for the reply.

[Hotfoot]

Also, you must carefully let the blade down...not to sudden, or it will strip teeth....also too little tension (should be "as tight as a Banjo String") can cause tooth loss.

[Zrexxer]

Technically, 18 tpi or finer is probably more appropriate for a steady diet of 16 ga, but I use my Jet for everything from 16 ga to 1/2" and I'm not in the mood to always be swapping blades, so I run 14 tpi on everything.

I find though that you have to be careful with your downforce on thinner stuff and I often nurse the saw through the vertical walls of the tubing my holding the bow by hand. The only band I ever stripped teeth on was a Lenox, which I promptly swore off. I use exclusively Morse bands now.

[cope]

Also, you must carefully let the blade down...not to sudden, or it will strip teeth....also too little tension (should be "as tight as a Banjo String") can cause tooth loss.

I have it pretty tight. On this subject, how tight does everyone set the tension on the down force?

[Broccoli1]

I don't even use the tension spring and hand feed the cuts. My diet doesn't include anything very thick so standing at the saw doesn't take up my time.

It also helps with the tubing since I can start slowly and then increase the feed once it breaks through and then again slow down once I get to the other side.



I Imagine if I had a 4" piece of solid I would set the tension spring

I also use the Morse blades from Enco.

[MichaelP]

Ihow tight does everyone set the tension on the down force?

8lb (I use a spring fishing scale to measure it)

[Hotfoot]

I don't use the hydraulic down feed or a tension spring. I have two 12" pieces of 2x2 x 1/4" that I place on the saw back when I want to apply force. I much prefer standing by and watching for "grabs', which seen to happen 1/2 way through large tubes...be they big exhaust pipe or oxygen cylinders.

[bandsawguy]

I have mine set up with a hydraulic cylinder and control from other saws I have repaired. With the spring setup it is very hard to get the feed rate correct. As far as tension goes you want at least 10,000 psi of tension on a 1/2 blade. On my 4x6 saw thats as tight as I can possible get it using just my hand on the plastic knob. Don't go by what they say in the manual mine says to tighten it until it doesn't slip or something like that and its no where near tight enough. Actually doesn't even register on my tension gage. Number of teeth is tough because of the variety of materials. I use a variable 9/11 tooth with the finer blades you have very little gullet capacity so when the blade is cutting through the solid 2" wide solid part of the tube the gullets fill the chips then have nowhere to go and the teeth will strip. If you are going to stay with fine run the band speed fast to get the teeth out of the cut before it takes to large of a chip.

[FusionKing]

I have mine set up with a hydraulic cylinder and control from other saws I have repaired. With the spring setup it is very hard to get the feed rate correct. As far as tension goes you want at least 10,000 psi of tension on a 1/2 blade. On my 4x6 saw thats as tight as I can possible get it using just my hand on the plastic knob. Don't go by what they say in the manual mine says to tighten it until it doesn't slip or something like that and its no where near tight enough. Actually doesn't even register on my tension gage. Number of teeth is tough because of the variety of materials. I use a variable 9/11 tooth with the finer blades you have very little gullet capacity so when the blade is cutting through the solid 2" wide solid part of the tube the gullets fill the chips then have nowhere to go and the teeth will strip. If you are going to stay with fine run the band speed fast to get the teeth out of the cut before it takes to large of a chip.

I'm following you but did you mean 10,000??? Can I even get that with an acme thread?

[vicegrip]

It's cool to read all the hints and tips......

You guys come up with.
The lighter the saw, the more the feed-stabillity is an issue.


Keep a variety of drop-offs, and you can sister appropriate peices,
along-side thin and light cuts. (Add to the fixed-jaw side of the peice).

Now even corse teeth are cutting in a stable condition, and gumming,
(stipped teeth) your blades should be history.

Fascinating about breaking in blades.
Over three decades of shop work, and NEVER have I been in
a setting where that would even be thought of, or allowed.
Is there real observed evidence that it matters??

Let me know.
I'm admittedly sceptical but keeping the noodle open.

VG

[bandsawguy]

I'm following you but did you mean 10,000??? Can I even get that with an acme thread?

yes 10,000 psi is the amount of tension you can put on a 1/2 blade. In my line of work a 3/4 in blade will typically get about 25,000 psi using a manual thread type tensioner. If you want to talk high tension I have a customers big block saw that runs 60,000 pounds but this is hydraulic and about as high as you get. At this tension we end up changing wheel bearings yearly.

[bandsawguy]

You guys come up with.


Fascinating about breaking in blades.
Over three decades of shop work, and NEVER have I been in
a setting where that would even be thought of, or allowed.
Is there real observed evidence that it matters??

Let me know.
I'm admittedly sceptical but keeping the noodle open.

VG

On a small saw blade break in is almost impossible but on industrial saws running production its a must to get blade life.

If you can imagine a tooth is milled on a bandsaw not ground and when new is very sharp like a pencil. As you know if you try and write with a very sharp pencil the tip chips away. But if you hone it to a more round tip you can write until its worn away. Only the very tip of the tooth on a bandsaw is actually m-42 material which is fused to the spring steel backing. If you chip it off you lose much of your hard cutting tooth.

So back to break in we usually recommend a customer cut the first 100 square inches at 20% reduced feed rate and pressure to hone the edge. Not every operator does it but many of the CNC controlled saws ask you after you retension the blade if its a new one and automatically run a break in cycle.

[vicegrip]

If you can imagine a tooth is milled on a bandsaw not ground and when new is very sharp like a pencil. As you know if you try and write with a very sharp pencil the tip chips away. But if you hone it to a more round tip you can write until its worn away. Only the very tip of the tooth on a bandsaw is actually m-42 material which is fused to the spring steel backing. If you chip it off you lose much of your hard cutting tooth.

So much of my machining any-more is carbide, I'm forgetting some of
the FUNdamentals, of HS edges. Ever my drilling now is carbide most of the time.
Lock and load and explode.

Thanks.

VG