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  • ANnother "How does my weld look" thread

    Hobart 210
    1/22 .030 Flux Core wire
    1/16" steel


  • #2
    It's a start. Lots of room for improvement. Your travel rate is slow then fast with short periods of constant travel rate.


    Weld bead raised above plane steel surface should be a flat arc with consistent even ripples frozen into the face reinforcement of the weld bead. This is a good representation a a proper weld bead.
    ((((((((((((((((((((((((

    This is how ripples in weld bead would look if your moving too fast.
    <<<<<<<<<<<<<<

    If weld bead is high without good fusion on side(toe), your moving (travel) is too slow and/or not enough amps.
    CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC

    Using wire feed welder MIG, GMAW or FCAW, flux core welding increase wire feed speed to increase amps and heat. If wire hits bottom of puddle also increase Volts.
    Last edited by Roger; 08-15-2009, 10:09 PM.

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    • #3
      Welcome to the forum hb, there's lots of good information here, and we have some fun, too. So join in with your questions, and share your experience. There is no such thing as a dumb or stupid question...we have all had them at one time or another....glad to have you aboard!
      Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
      Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
      IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
      IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies and helpful information. Time to find some more scrap metal.
        What pattern should I be using when moving the gun (c, sewing, etc..)
        Is it best to push or pull?
        How far should the tip be from the metal?

        I have been trying to read as much as possible and this site has been a great help.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by hb_hound View Post
          Thanks for the replies and helpful information. Time to find some more scrap metal.
          What pattern should I be using when moving the gun (c, sewing, etc..)
          Is it best to push or pull?
          How far should the tip be from the metal?

          I have been trying to read as much as possible and this site has been a great help.
          C is ok for pattern, there are lots of others, depending on position, and joint config. It's also ok to just not use a pattern and just keep a steady speed and straight. Draw lines the width of the bead you want on the steel first with soapstone...helps to keep you from wandering.
          The saying is: "when there's slag...you drag" for fluxcore drag or pull the puddle.
          for MIG (with gas) you push. With the tip between 1/4" to 3/8" stickout. It's important to keep it even as you travel, because the distance affects the volt/amp ratio.
          The is a fluxcore nozzle that will allow the contact tip to protrude out farther all by itself to give you a better look at the puddle.

          Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
          Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
          IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
          IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

          Comment


          • #6
            Here's a pattern I use:

            Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
            Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
            IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
            IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

            Comment


            • #7
              Here's another"

              Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
              Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
              IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
              IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

              Comment


              • #8
                This is for vertical:

                Red dot is starting point

                Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
                Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
                IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
                IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Wa-Hoooooooooo .... I followed that with my mouse Rocky. The bad part is I had to do it twice before I made it all the way. And then I was close to dizzy.

                  This is an area that I NEED practice... I loose concentration and get my pattern all messed up.

                  Thank You for the great drawing.
                  Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
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                  O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
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                  Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
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                  I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.
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                  • #10
                    Rocky, thanks for the great pics, it is always nice to get a visual. I do have questions on the fluxcore nozzle. Are they offered for the HH210 and where is the best place to find one? I stopped by the LWS this morning and was told the gun for my HH210 was discontinued and that nozzle was not available. I was also told that Hobart parts were discontinued Miller products or items that did not pass QC from Miller.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by hb_hound View Post
                      I stopped by the LWS this morning and was told the gun for my HH210 was discontinued and that nozzle was not available. I was also told that Hobart parts were discontinued Miller products or items that did not pass QC from Miller.
                      More ignorant lying by clueless LWS countermonkeys.

                      The HH210 is not "discontinued," in fact it's only recently released.
                      The nozzle IS available, the Hobart number is #770 487 and the Miller number is #226 190.
                      Hobart parts are certainly NOT "discontinued Miller products."
                      Trailblazer 302 * Millermatic 212 * Syncrowave 180SD * X-Treme 12VS Feeder * Spoolmate 3035
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                      Hobart HH 125EZ


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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Zrexxer View Post
                        More ignorant lying by clueless LWS countermonkeys.

                        The HH210 is not "discontinued," in fact it's only recently released.
                        The nozzle IS available, the Hobart number is #770 487 and the Miller number is #226 190.
                        Hobart parts are certainly NOT "discontinued Miller products."
                        Thanks for the info, looks like I will be finding a new LWS to shop at. That really sucks because this one is less then 3 miles from the house.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hey,
                          Shouldn't you be making some pork sizzle instead of steel?

                          BMB

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by BMB View Post
                            Hey,
                            Shouldn't you be making some pork sizzle instead of steel?
                            BMB
                            Still smoking the pork, just trying to learn how to melt metal so I can build a new cooker

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Zrexxer View Post
                              More ignorant lying by clueless LWS countermonkeys.

                              The HH210 is not "discontinued," in fact it's only recently released.
                              The nozzle IS available, the Hobart number is #770 487 and the Miller number is #226 190.
                              Hobart parts are certainly NOT "discontinued Miller products."
                              Living proof that LWS counter-monkeys are not brain surgeons!
                              Arcin' and sparkin', Rocky D <><
                              Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
                              IF YOU CAN READ THIS, THANK A TEACHER...
                              IF YOU'RE READING THIS IN ENGLISH, THANK A SOLDIER!

                              Comment

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