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Waxes, Crisco and oil mixes

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  • Waxes, Crisco and oil mixes

    This comes up all the time for coatings, finishing and protection of the metal surface from oxidation.
    Starting with the waxes. the use of different waxes natural or man made are for a couple of reasons. They all have different melting points,colors,flash points(point at which it will flame) and handling characteristics. From hard and brittle to soft and sticky, not to mention odor etc.
    Bees wax- insect,142'-149'F very sticky
    Spermceti-an animal wax from the sperm whale,113'-120'F brittle odor and tasteless.

    Mineral waxes
    Ozokerite 145'-182'F is from bituminous coal used to produce a dry type of wax

    Ceresine 128'-185'f It is made from the refined and bleached Ozokerite just a pure and nicer looking form of the above. When mixed with paraffin you can make any combination of soft to hard. it is used in a lot of the industrial process waxes as mold release, and die stamping and threading waxes.

    Petroleum waxes
    Paraffin 118'-165'F
    Petrolatum 106'-145'F (petroleum jelly)
    Microcrystalline 140'-200'F

    All made from crude oil by the distillation process.

    Vegetable waxes

    Bayberry 116'-120'F from the bayberry bush
    Japan wax 122'-133'F the coating on the japan sumac tree berries used mainly in buffing compounds and metal lubricates. it is more of a fatty type wax
    Candelilla wax156'-163'F is from a reed like plant found in North Mexico and southern Texas
    Carnauba wax 180'F-187'F is from the Brazilian Carnauba palm tree.

    Along with the additives that will adjust the wax for what ever purpose you want.

    Mixing tallow, beef or mutton or Crisco refined odor/tasteless tallow to the waxes will adjust the the melting or hardening point of the mixture. Same as mixing oils with the wax, as the oils are pressed out of a great number of wax blends. before being shipped out. Since you can consider the oils as a solvent or thinner.

    So with all these types of waxes what would be the best to use. Well with all the above I would say you can head to the local store and pick up Johnsons paste wax in the can. Butchers wax or your favorite brand of paste wax (solid). There are any number of products in liquid form that are called waxes. It is no more than advertising hype, As by definition a wax is a solid material.
    The good old standby for sealing jelly and jam jars would be next.Plain old paraffin wax would be the second choice. there is no need that you get the more expensive microcrystalline waxes

    Renaissance Wax is a microcrystalline wax which is a petroleum wax containing small, indistinct crystals, and having a higher molecular weight, melting point, and viscosity than paraffin wax. And it comes in any number of colors.

    You can fake the same type of wax with some good ole tins of solid shoe polish and some of the paraffin or the microcrystalline wax, heated and blended together.

    SAFETY WARNING NOTE remember that to melt and blend waxes or apply them in a liquid form,you must always use a double boiler or the wax can in a boiling water bath pot.And use empty food cans instead of glass containers. The amount you are going to loose sticking to the sides of the can after you are done. will not make much difference in the time you retire at. But it may keep you away from a nasty burn.

    To apply the wax you can do it a number of ways, you can warm up the piece or have heat lamps shinning on the piece. have the wax warmed or liquefied. And apply it with a brush (natural bristles) or a spray a cheap Horrible Fright spray gun or air brush. Make sure you get all the areas around the joints and welds.

    Again the prepping of the piece is important to for stall continued oxidation under the wax. You must remove all traces of moisture and body oils. Acetone works well.

    After the piece is waxed you can buff with a soft cloth for a light luster. Or a slow speed car type buffer, around 750rpm. And when you polish the wax it does harden up some.

    But whether it is inside or outside, it is not the permanent protect some thing. As with everything you have to do up keep to keep it looking sharp.

    Something else I offer for your consideration, If you do use a wax sealer finish. Print some fancy looking care instructions on a small tag. Wash with clean warm soapy water, rag dry and reapply so and so wax to keep it looking good. You would be surprised at the number of people that will wax their gongs yearly or twice yearly and would never think of waxing their ride
    glen, been there, done that and probably broke it!If you aren't on the edge. You'r taking up to much room